Super Soundproofing

Archive for the ‘How To Do It’ Category

What’s New at The SUPER SOUNDPROOFING WEB SITE!

• See Soundproofing videos at the new SuperSoundproofingTube video site! Get some fame! Upload your soundproofing remodel videos!
• Green Glue comes to the Super Soundproofing Co!
• Now available from us: Natural Cotton Fibers for sound control within walls and ceilings. A simple sound insulator with both thermal and soundproofing qualities!,
• A really economical Sound Control Booth you can make yourself!
• We’ve added info on the “Poor Man’s Sound Isolation Window” to the site. Here’s a way to get some reasonable sound control through your window without spending a fortune!
• West Coast customers: A place you can go to see, handle and feel soundproofing materials and personally talk with experts about your individual sound control problems! Our “Brick and Mortar” store is located at 455 E. Carmel St. in San Marcos, California. Open weekdays 8-5 and ’till noon on Saturday! See our noise abatement products on display! Pick out what you need! All our web-site products are available on-site for immediate delivery! We were the very first on-line resource for sound control products and now we’ve opened the very first walk-in store!
• A new kind of Furring Track! Plastic! Yes, Truly new and adding many STC points to your Sound Clip install. And see our Insul-Trax.
• A material to place under hardwood floors and tile to reduce impact noise! Now in stock! Call and ask about our “Super-Sound-Seal”. 760 752 3030
• We’ve added a new kind of “Sound Clip” replacing the old expensive kinds. See “Your Options” and comparisons!
• We now have “Hangers” for your speaker cabinets! Float them from the ceiling on a chain to perfectly isolate them from the walls and floor!
• New! A brand new product! “Double-sided Foam” We apply our adhesive to both sides of our closed cell 1/8″ PVC foam, then cover it with protective film. The first peel off backing is pulled from the foam and it’s then easy to stick it to walls, ceiling, etc. The other backing is then removed so you can paste on more thicker foam, MLV, wallboard, ceiling tiles, even wallpaper! Use it to sandwich together two panels of drywall! (Sheetrock). Use this anywhere liquid gluing is unsatisfactory because of difficult access, the odor, mess, etc. Use it for blocking sound. Quickly dampen sound vibrations on joists inside ceilings and on studs. Available in 2′ and 4.5′ (Yes, that’s feet!) widths in 50′ and 100′ rolls. (Inquire!)
• Need a electrician? Go Here!
• Tips for builders.
• We’ve added a scanning service (Scan-Alert- see the sidebar), to scan our site for hacker vulnerability. They scan every day to be sure your private info is not at risk while surfing our site..
• Just Added! Closed cell padding tape for studding, joists, etc. This 1/8″ closed cell foam tape is self adhesive and applies easily. Use it to increase sound attenuation in walls, floors, ceilings by padding ceiling, wall and floor panels. Use it on resilient channel and furring track! Stops floor squeaks! The simplest, cheapest soundproofing technique available. Even if you don’t do anything else, this will increase sound loss as much as 10 db or more right in the speech range.
• We now have a good, economical Spray Adhesive. for attaching foam to walls, ceiling, etc. One coat allows removal. two coats makes it permanent.
• Added: Thermal Insulation with great acoustical properties.
• Acoustical “Lead” is getting harder to get. We still have it in tape and sheet!
• Major price increases in the mass loaded vinyl and lead sheeting (Hit the “Prices” bar at the left) But thanks to our customers loyalty and due to re-negotiation of our contracts, we’ve become a high volume supplier of these materials and are holding the line for you!
• Used acoustical curtains are in stock but we are getting very low. Get yours now before we run out!
• At Last! A contractor/consultant who knows our acoustical foam systems and materials and can evaluate your situation for the lucky folks in the San Francisco Bay Area. We also link with Granahan, a real good consultant and contractor for San Diego / Southern California. Want to see a soundproofing job? See his installation pix. We have a list of other contractors, check for one in your area by calling us.
• Resilient Sound Isolation Sound Clip! Doubles the sound resistance of a typical wall. These little rubber and metal fixtures are easy to use and are twice as effective as just metal strips (resilient channel). Screws to the stud with 2 fasteners!
• Noise cancellation for aircraft? Not just headsets, but cabin quieting! We also have headsets so you can get a good nights sleep!
• Adding noise to reduce noise? Masking sound. Some have reported that the electronic devices made by Marpac mask out sound very well. (So do fans, water fountains and fish tanks).
• Sound-proofing Doors! How to do it! For real!
• Our message center: (The Forum- left sidebar) Very popular! Ask your questions of the experts and let everyone have at ‘em! Or search the database for answers.
• A portable sound control room has been added to our list of products. Available now!.
• A acoustical foam sample kit of materials is now available. $10 gets you one sound control kit and a coupon good for $10 off your next order! And you can now download the EPA sound control book in Adobe format, ($10) still preserving the illustrations.
• Due to popular demand, we now have available VINYL SEE-THRU/WALK-THRU Doorway kits. This vinyl material is also useful for windows!
• We’ve added Complete Products database pages so you can see at a glance everything we have to offer. If you don’t see it, ask! We probably have it.
• We’ve added information on INTERIOR WINDOWS to the site! Yes, now you can reduce sound coming through your existing window by up to 80% over your present window installation with or without any modification to it or the frame. Custom installations or “Snap-ins” are now available from a us, or do-it -yourself!
• Now a new page dedicated to actual sound proofing SOLUTIONS to specific noise problems.
• You need a copy of the EPA’s out-of-print book on Sound proofing. “Quieting in the Home”. (Over a hundred pages). Read this and you won’t need a consultant! Just $15 PP More info about this book and others, too! You can download it too!
• Check out the new “Sitemap” and take a walking tour of our soundproofed house! Musician? Some new features , the newest is about thoroughly sound proofing a garage!
• If you like what we’re doing, please help us stay in business by buying sound proofing materials from us. Imitators selling inferior materials are really cutting into our business. Their unhappy customers then call us for help! Check them out first with the Better Business Bureau! There may be a reason they are not a member and don’t take credit cards! We won’t just tell you what you want to hear just to make a sale, but they will!
• We’re been a real company since 1988, not a “Dot-Com”. We manufacture and stock these materials and know how to use them. We’re not a “drop shipper” like many of our competitors working out of their garage, bedroom, etc.. We quote prices right on this web site and you can order and get delivery right now! (Most items shipped same day!)

Soundproofing Windows with a “Plug”

Windows are the most common sources of admitting noise into (or out of), a room. Glass panes and wood window frames seem to be almost invisible to sound. An alternative to replacing the window with double pane glass, (a noise reduction of about 20%) or vinyl frames, (noise reduction of about 30-50%), is to make a removable “plug” to block the sound coming through the window. While this will also block light, it won’t matter if the window is a bedroom and the noise is keeping you from sleeping. If light is wanted for day use, make the plug removable. It can then be taken out to allow light to enter the room. Here’s how:

Measure your window frame to see how much depth there is to the sill. This will determine the thickness of the material you can use. The mat is cut from rolls that are 4′ wide and is sold by the running (linear), foot. So if your window was 4′X4″, you’d need 4 running (Lineal) feet of it. If you window is an odd size, like 4′X4’5″, order to the next largest half foot size: 4′X4’6″

Usually, one thickness of 2″ “Super Soundproofing Mat” will do. The mat is relatively stiff, but windows over about 3′X3′ may need a “backing board”. This is simply some lightweight wood or fiber board to attach the mat to. Use contact cement. Cut a few holes in the back for your fingers to fit while handling the plug.

The plug should fit the window opening very tightly without cracks which will permit sound to enter the room. It probably won’t matter which way it is inserted, but if you place the soundproofing side out and the carrier board side in, you could add more soundproofing mat to the room side, if needed. If you put some on the outside, make sure it’s cut an inch or two oversize to help block the sound that may come through the edges of the plug and the window frame. A space here helps the soundproofing effort! Make sure your window panes and frame are well sealed, no air gaps!

To make the plug easy to handle, if you intend to remove it, attach some cabinet handles to it so you can easily grip it will be lightweight enough for a woman to handle if you use thin boards and plywood and the window frame isn’t very large. An added bonus of such a soundproofing plug is the thermal insulation property of the window goes way up, keeping you warmer in winter and cooler in summer! A 1″ layer of our Super Sound Proofing Mat” is about R-5.5 so it wouldn’t take too many layers to equal a very high “R” number. (The R number refers to the heat insulation quality of a material).

If the window is exposed to full sunlight all day, it may be prudent to help limit heat buildup between the glass and the soundproofing mat by first lining the window and mat with aluminum foil as a reflector.  The mat can withstand temperatures of over 200*F so don’t worry about it, but what you leave in the airspace  might suffer- (plants, shades, blinds, etc)!  You can get an idea of the heat buildup in the airspace by sliding a oven meat thermometer thru the mat and into the airspace.  While not totally accurate, it will give you an idea of the heated air in the space.

If large amounts of sound are being passed by a window, either way, (playing the drums?), more drastic measures may be needed. This could entail lining your plug with a limpid material to give it more mass.  If a plug as described accomplishes the purpose, it may make sense to leave it in place rather than to make it removable.  In that case it can be sealed by caulking it around the edges, which will help the soundproofing sealing job. A better material for this is our “Super Soundproofing Floor Mat”, a “loaded” vinyl with a foam backing.

We have the mat in 1 1/2″ and 2″ thicknesses, which are firm enough to push into place in the smaller window frames without a backing board. A dab of cement like household “Goop” will hold the mat in place, if needed. If you intend to leave it in place, caulk around the edges.

You might also consider a shutter for the outside of the window if it’s practical. 3/8″ Plexiglas will work, but must fit well! Many times this works quite well.

Alternatives/additions to this is a “Interior Window“, (we now can supply acrylic panels and magnetic edging so you can make your own or we’ll make it for you), one that fits inside your existing frame and window or “Acoustical Curtains” either vinyl or fabric to hang over the window opening. Remember, optimally, a dead air spacing between glass is needed for a real meaningful reduction of sound in a framed window.

Super Soundproofing LINKS to other Resources.

Here’s a list of links and resources of interest for those of you with noise control and soundproofing issues, not in any order of importance.  This is by no means all the links on this subject on our site, but just the ones we’ve taken the time to catalog and place here for your convenience. The most recent are listed at the top.

 

See Soundproofing videos at the new SuperSoundproofingTube video site! Get some fame!  Upload your soundproofing, remodel videos!

The right stuff to put in your floor for airborne sound and impact noise!>[GO]

We have now combined all our books and info about soundproofing on our Books page.  Go here for a quick look-see of the material we recommend.  Some are hardcopies, some can be downloaded instantly and some are FREE!

A couple of the most popular books located there is on sound control for buildings:  Building Sound Control Try it!  Another important book is Noise Control Manual For Residential Buildings Both of these books are highly recommended as far more comprehensive than our EPA reprint.

Used acoustical curtains are back! We sold over 400 sets of similar curtains with excellent results before we ran out.  Get yours now because we don’t know when we can ever get more, when we run out this time!

We constantly get questions about where to get someone to do an acoustical evaluation or install material.  Check with your State building contractors license board.  Mostly, people doing this type of thing need to be licensed by the state they are in.  But, if you are willing to educate them and don’t want to do-it-yourself, almost any handyman can do the soundproofing type of insulation installation, not-with-standing many states requirements for licensing.  Some of the Builders, Internet usegroups such as alt.home.repair and other Do-It-Yourself forums are invaluable sources of information!  Another resource is IMPROVENET! a unified contractors listing for contractors in various parts of the country. (USA)  To see a cost estimate of the work, check in with get-A-Quote! One of the most asked questions is answered here! How to hire a contractor. Or How To Select Soundproofing Suppliers!

A noted reliable contractor and sound control consultant in the San Francisco Bay Area is Bay Area Noise Control. Here’s Granahan,   one proven reliable that uses our methods and materials located in Southern California.

Discussion community for home remodeling, renovation and repair. Also general discussion on topics such as insurance, buying/selling and more.

California:  For the San Diego and Orange County/ Riverside area, Try HandyMan Oscar.:

Located in the UK? Here’s a site with similar products to ours, but you’ll still need our “Books”! (and the sample kit may allow you to match up with something similar, obtainable locally!).

What about soundproofing your bird?

Another interesting link for those who want Music Rooms or you have a need to quiet yourpiano? This other site shows how to quiet the keys!

Home repair and upgrading: Best site we’ve seen so far is Jim Evans effort.  Check out the“Computer and Office Desks” Page – the have additional resources for home improvement, too.See www.abuildnet.com/

We get lots of requests for info about noise-canceling, or Active Noise Reduction.  (ANR)  In Desert Storm, the enemy were astounded and dismayed when they couldn’t hear the American tanks drive right up into their camps!  That’s a link to a site on that subject.

Some of our customers have had good results by “Masking” annoying, intolerable noise with white noise generators made by MARPAC or SCAMPMASK.  Hard to see that adding more noise will relieve the noise, but to see if this will work for you, use a FM receiver tuned to between stations to see if this will tend to mask your noise source. A running fan will sometimes work, too.  A better inexpensive solution is headsets/earplugs: (Earmuffs).

Sound, noise,  legal problems?  Need help?  Try the NO-NONSENSE national clearinghouse to reduce noise pollution; http://www.nonoise.org They have impressive resources! Another site of interest is: The noise enforcement and code compliance experts, offering a full range of noise-related services. A link to a reading of annoyance and comparative zoning regulations is at BKL Consultants Ltd.

Our own FAQ page covers info gleaned from the old forums on the old (months ago) web site.  The other archived forums can be accessed from the Navigation sidebar. This is still very good info, just like our own current Forum.

For wet blow-in insulation, check the Nu-wool company for a dealer near you.  Don’t bother with common loose cellulose filling, it has little in acoustical properties!  (About the same as fiberglass insulation!) Another possibility is “Icynene”.

Building a Sound Studio? Another “Gotta Have It” of interest to sound studio builders is “Acoustics 101″ It also has similar info we provide here, but in a more condensed manner.    Practical info from another one of our competitors who’ve been there, done that!  (We provide links to our competitors in the interest of promoting your knowledge.  You’re in the drivers seat on where to buy the products!).  Don’t forget to bookmark us to be sure to return here!

The stuffed shirt forum: Probably the best source of the more esoteric info about audio noise and sound info is the alt.sci.physics.acoustics (This is not a link- it’s the address of the usegroup) newsgroup.    The regulars there are mostly professional and academic and are located in the UK so look down on us common Americans or anyone not willing to spend a fortune on consulting fees to generate a impressive but, mostly useless report,  or who, (God Forbid!),  might happen to try make a buck.   There is, however,  a lot of info passing through  there and these snobs have been known to pass some of it off to questioners if it’s abjectly and subserviently phrased to their liking and you make it crystal clear that you respect their clearly high(er) station in life.

Looking for HARD DATA about soundproofing measurements and comparisons of ratings?  Well, we don’t go into it here on this site because it’s all relative and lab figures can be very misleading!  Materials behave differently depending on their care in installation and the surroundings. Annoyance levels are subjective and so is the materials to control them!  But if you need a noise control primer and want to look at some graphs and charts, here’s the site!

Churches usually have limited budgets, so the sound control in them may be badly handled.  Here’s some links to those specializing in this:

Church Myth: Wires for soundproofing!?

The Church Sound Discussion Group part of The Church Sound Network. Listing of appropriate books on sound systems.

Our own sound control Solutions to everyday noisy sound-proofing problems.

Soundproofing Table of Contents

How do I find more information on noise control and soundproofing?

See the yellow box back on the home page? It links you to specific areas of this site that addresses particular soundproof problems. Everything we’ve learned in talking with people about sound control has been put into these pages. This is practical info, not geared to controlled soundproofing lab tests and lab numbers. Check the links page here on the web site. You may want to get a copy of the EPA soundproof reprint: “Quieting: A practical Guide to Noise Control”, we’ve reprinted it as a public service and it’s available for just postage and the photo copying costs – $15 PP ($18 Foreign). You can order from the web site with your credit card! You can even download it for a small fee ($10) -and don’t forget your local library! (Give them your copy when done). Other of our selected books are at “Supersoundproofing.biz“. Even a free download of “How To Soundproof Light Aircraft”- of use to interested in soundproofing vehicles.

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How do I soundproof my window? I can’t get a good nights sleep.

There are several methods to get relief from sound passing through a window, depending on whether you need light or not. These are, in order of importance:

Replace the window with a vinyl framed “double/triple paned” glass window, available from your local hardware store.

Add another window on the inside frame of your existing window. We have “snap-in” windows for this!

Place a sound barrier in the window frame, blocking the sound (and the light).

Use acoustical drapes to block sound as they do in Hotels/Motels.

Noise control reductions of 50%-90% are reported. Go here for other options.

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How do I soundproof a wall? I can hear the people next door talking and suspect they can hear me too!

You bet they can hear everything just as you do! If you’re renting, you probably won’t want to spend too much money on modifications, so go see how one guy soundproofed the wall of his apartment. If you’re of a mind to take down the drywall on your side or can spare the space for a “false wall” check the construction techniques used to soundproof a house. Soundproof Ceilings? OPTIONS

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I’m A Musician, In A Band, How do I soundproof my room for practice?

Some people think they can hang some rugs, (substitute mattresses, egg-crate, foam rubber, etc for “rugs” above), and get an acceptable noise reduction as to where the neighbors won’t call the cops. Not so! See the mythspage for more details.

To find how to do it right, see the web page here on “Soundproofing A Garage” Also, Portable sound rooms.

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Where can I find soundproofing materials for my particular problem?

Many common materials available locally can be used for soundproofing, such as bricks, concrete blocks, sand bags, roll roofing, drywall, tile backer board, hay-bales and many others, depending on your problem. Professional materials are needed many times because common materials aren’t suitable or effective enough, depending on the job at hand. Some materials that may seem suitable are not! See the myths section of the website to avoid costly mistakes.

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Why doesn’t my landlord help me more?

It’s usually a question of money. That’s why most people renting want a soundproof solution they can take with them when they move, which you can do when you put our insulating mat on panels. You need to point out the enhancement to his property value of a soundproofing project and maybe he’ll buy into it!

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There’s too much info here! I’m confused! How can I find out what I need?

Just call us! We’ll be glad to answer your specific questions. That’s what we are here for, to help you quickly understand what you need to know in order to avoid making expensive mistakes. Please don’t call on our toll free order line- thereby tying it up for those wishing to place orders, call us on the technical line at 760 749 7049 We’re here 8-8 weekdays Pacific Time. If the line is busy, give us 5-10 minutes and try again.

You can leave orders, card numbers, info, etc on our answer machine after hours, it’s safe and secure.

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Who is “Super Soundproofing Co”?

We’re “Brick and Mortar”! We’ve been selling “Super Soundproofing” materials since 1990, mostly to the aviation industry, world-wide. We’ve added to our sound control product line and expanded with this web site to bring these hard to find materials to ordinary people who need them for everyday applications.

This site is not about us! It’s about you and how we can help you. There are some snobbish sound control businesses that have come on line with “Million Dollar Websites” geared to expanding their sales from their industrial base. They offer very little in informative content, basically flogging their common audio control room sound deadening products as “soundproofing” materials.

Unlike most of them, you can talk to us by phone and we’re here to help. (760-749-7049) 9-5 Pacific Time, 5 days a week. Others are just jumping on the bandwagon- beware!

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What is the difference between acoustical foams?

Common acoustical foams are usually open cell, urethane or polyester expanded foams. Because they are open cell, they absorb and pass sound readily. Usually they are used to condition a room which has bad acoustics, such as reverberation due to reflective, hard surfaces.

Closed cell foams, such as our “Super Soundproofing Mat” absorbs readily but does not pass sound easily, making it a good barrier as well. Made of vinyl-nitrile, it will not absorb odor and has excellent moisture and fire resistance. Some think it’s the same as neoprene- it’s not!

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What is the difference between a sound absorber and a barrier?

Absorbers tend to pass sound easily, while barriers block sound. Combined together they make a “Sound Control System”. Our mat is the best and the least inexpensive as we cut it from bulk rolls.

Our “Super Soundproofing Flooring” and “Floor Mat” are barriers make of a 1/8th inch thick “Loaded Vinyl” that weighs one pound per sq ft! Almost like lead and performs very similar. (We have lead too!) The Floor Mat has an added 1/4″ foam bonded to it for a vibration isolator. Typical applications are to place the “Flooring” under carpets and to apply to walls under or over the drywall. The floor mat is used where added soundproofing is needed and the foam backing would be needed to add to the sound reduction.

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When is the Government going to do something about noise pollution?

The government has been doing something in the form of expanded powers of OSHA and the EPA. But more grass roots activity is being taken by organizations like nonoise.org which has combined resources to help those with noise pollution problems. They can put pressure on city governments and even condo associations!

Raise awareness about noise pollution

Create, collect, and distribute information and resources regarding noise pollution

Strengthen laws and governmental efforts to control noise pollution

Establish networks among environmental, professional, medical, governmental, and activist groups working on noise control issues

Assist activists working against noise pollution.

The mission of our Noise Control Pollution Clearinghouse is to create more civil cities and more natural rural and wilderness areas by reducing noise pollution at the source by using soundproofing products.

Use “SUPER” Soundproofing Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV)- Flexible Noise Barrier (FNB) material for airborne Sound Control.  New lower prices now in effect!

The ultimate noise barrier  for Flooring or Walls- almost as good as lead! (Yes we have that too!)

ound transfer through floors and ceilings is a continuing noise control problem, especially in older buildings.  There are two main issues regarding noise transfer: airborne sound and impact noise. Each are different and require separate soundproofing treatments.  Airborne sound is most easily dealt with.  Use the MLV vinyl barrier.  Impact noise is dealt with by using  “Super Seal” subfloor or SSP-FL or Tl. Normally, you need both impact underlayment and MLV.

Use a “ Mass Loaded  Vinyl” barrier, (MLV),  (1 Lb per Sq. Ft!), carpet underlayment as heavy as lead that provides a soundproofing layer on the floor and under the carpet and padding for noise control.  It is a tough, wear resistant material that may be placed on or under floating hard floors to make them more comfortable by reducing impact while slowing noise transfer above and below.   When used as an underlayment for hardwood floors or tile, reduces sound reflection and transfer dramatically.  Can also be used on walls and ceilings.  When installed inside the wall, more than doubles the STC.  For instance, a standard hollow sheetrock  wall, with 1/2″ Gypsum board on metal studs has a STC rating of about 23. (Ordinary conversation through it can be understood). Adding the MLV can increase it to about 53!  (Loud shouting is not heard).  Just staple or glue the material to the wall, then cover with sheetrock- tape off and paint. Want more sound reduction? Use a double layer of MLV or double weight material!

Normally used as a carpet underlayment,  one type  has a foam backing, the other doesn’t.  The foam backing mat is recommended under carpets as it provides a vibration cushion, floating the barrier just off the floor. This helps reduce footfall and impact noise.  MLV without the foam cushion would be under the subfloor or in walls and ceilings or as second layer to increase sound reduction even more.

Typically used this way: seal subfloor cracks, gaps with acoustical caulk first. Tape seams of the floor with metal tape. Lay the MLV down, caulk edges and seal with metal tape. Cover with carpet pad and carpet.  If using the one with and without foam backing together, place the foam backed material down first.  Install 90 degrees to each other.  Important!  Do not skip the step of inspecting and caulking the gaps and seams of your bare subfloor!  Use metal tape on the seams.

Combined with the “Double drywall” technique described in the resilient channels page, it provides the ultimate in sound reduction

MLV may even be painted. (Clean well with alcohol and use vinyl or latex paint).

Fast way to get superior sound control in your apartment: Buy imitation wall paneling from the hardware store.  Carefully cut to fit your wall. (No gaps). Apply MLV to the back of the paneling with either contact cement or using the version with PSA. (Pressure Sensitive Adhesive).

Attach to your wall with finishing nails. Panels can be removed with a minimum of small holes when you move!  Tip:  Using metal tape on the walls at the place where the joints are will increase the sound blocking effectiveness of your panels.

The three types of paintable MLV we sell are the:

GOOD: Super Soundproofing MLV:  Same as above for homes and offices, but without the foam backing.  Somewhat  less expensive at  $4.52 per running foot. ($1.13 per Sq. Ft). Available in 4′ widths X 25′ lengths: $1.13 or  4.5′X30′  $5.08.  Also available with peel-off adhesive backing! (Eliminates the mess and odor of adhesive and is easier to install on walls.) Available in 2# weights too. See the buy button or better, CALL!

BETTER: Super Soundproofing MLV:  Useful for vehicles, too. 1/8″ thick. It has a 1/4″ open cell foam bonded to the underside to provide additional vibration isolation.    $8.63 per running foot: (54″ wide). ($1.92 per Sq Ft). PN 09-00004-F   30′ Roll: $258.40 09-00004-1

BEST: We also have Super Soundproofing MLV- same as above but with 1/4″ closed cell foam bonded to the MLV for superior noise damping and blocking. $14.63 per running foot: (54″ wide). ($3.26 per Sq Ft). PN 09-00006-F   25′ Roll: $365.75 09-00006-1  30′ rolls are only available for pick up in our San Marcos, Ca warehouse.

Flammability: It  meets certain UL requirements and building Department, but is not FAA approved for certified aircraft. (Homebuilt OK).

Use MLV under machinery, speakers  and health machines for noise control into and through the floor!  You’ll need at least a 3′-4′ margin of Mass Loaded Vinyl barrier around your running machine to reduce flanking sound from penetrating down through the floor. Special dimple Vibration pads will help here too!

Another use we discovered is to lay panels of the “MLV” (loaded vinyl barrier with a foam backing),  inside/above a dropped acoustical tile ceiling.  The material needs to be cut so that it overlaps each adjacent layer by a few inches.  This is done by cutting a  length of the 54″ wide material long-ways into two 4′X2’3″ sections.  These will then cover  two 2′X4′ sections of the dropped ceiling tiles with an overlap.  Start with a run of ceiling tiles in place against the walls and caulk the seam at the wall in place using our non-hardening caulk. (See our “Prices” page). Cut a slit in the panels with a knife or scissors to clear the suspension wires and caulk the cut seam and the area where the  wire passes through with a heavy blob of sealant.  Before starting this job, evaluate the strength of the wires holding the ceiling up.  If need be, add wires to reinforce the suspension system.  Bear in mind this mat weighs one pound per square foot and the ceiling support wires are  not normally stressed for this kind of weight.

Things to keep in mind:  Be sure to cover the entire area, caulking gaps and seams to prevent air flow that will carry sound. Have someone  help to cut panels and hand them up. This will make it much easier while working standing on a ladder inside the ceiling area.. If the walls of the room do not extend up through the ceiling to the roof, consider adding higher walls to the “stub” walls so as to prevent flanking sound from passing through  and over  from the adjoining ceiling.  If using MLV on the floor, lay out the material and leave overnight to let it flatten and to prevent billow type bubbles due to uneven expansion.

Dimple Pad: Now, a product for reducing impact noise for under hardwood and tile floors!: SUPER-SEAL: “Sub-Floor +” floor underlayment. At last! A dimpled product that reduces impact noise created by walking on hardwood or tile floors. It’s just 3/8″ thick, comes in rolls 6’6″ wide. Just $1.85 per sq. ft. (You’ll need a combination of this and MLV too if there is an issue with airborne noise). We have another product that combines impact and airborne sound control in one membrane.

Another use we discovered is to lay panels of the “MLV” (loaded vinyl barrier with a foam backing), inside/above a dropped acoustical tile ceiling. The material needs to be cut so that it overlaps each adjacent layer by a few inches. This is done by cutting a length of the 54″ wide material long-ways into two 4′X2’3″ sections. These will then cover two 2′X4′ sections of the dropped ceiling tiles with an overlap. Start with a run of ceiling tiles in place against the walls and caulk the seam at the wall in place using our non-hardening caulk. (See our “Prices” page). Cut a slit in the panels with a knife or scissors to clear the suspension wires and caulk the cut seam and the area where the wire passes through with a heavy blob of sealant. Before starting this job, evaluate the strength of the wires holding the ceiling up. If need be, add wires to reinforce the suspension system. Bear in mind this mat weighs one pound per square foot and the ceiling support wires are not normally stressed for this kind of weight.

Things to keep in mind: Be sure to cover the entire area, caulking gaps and seams to prevent air flow that will carry sound. Have someone help to cut panels and hand them up. This will make it much easier while working standing on a ladder inside the ceiling area.. If the walls of the room do not extend up through the ceiling to the roof, consider adding higher walls to the “stub” walls so as to prevent flanking sound from passing through and over from the adjoining ceiling. If using MLV on the floor, lay out the material and leave overnight to let it flatten and to prevent billow type bubbles due to uneven expansion.

Tips for new construction or renovation of floors:

The subfloor is the culprit in sound transfer.  Sometimes it’s not thick enough, or strong enough, (where thin subfloor panels are used over floor joists that are spaced too widely for the thickness of subflooring).  Or where the subfloor is improperly attached with too few fasteners or just nailed.  (Use screws!)  If your floor joists are exposed, now is the time to forestall problems in the future. As a minimum, use our green Insulation Tape to tape the faces of the joists/subfloor joints  to help prevent squeaks and to reduce sound transfer into the joists. It comes in 1-7/16″,  2″ or 3″ widths for this purpose.  (DIY-?  You don’t need the installation tool pictured above, it’s for contractors.  You can apply the tape easily by hand).

Better, buy the 2′ or 4′ wide material (yes, that’s 2 “Feet” and 4 “Feet” wide!), similar to “Green Glue”. to cover the underside of the entire sub-floor panel.  This will add dampening to the panel, reducing the resonant “boom” when walking on the floor.  All these tapes come with a peel off backing for easy, clean, no-mess adhesive application.

A less expensive, more labor intensive method is to glue  1/8″ or 1/4″ closed cell acoustical foam to the underside of your sub-floor panels. (Cost: About $1 per sq. ft.)

This also works well for drywall panels, too.  Call about “Mass Loaded Vinyl” barrier (MLV) Now!

here are many ways to use these sound barrier underlayment materials in combination- for maximum results call us to help you tailor your installation for your specific needs. 760 752 3030 8-5 PST 5 Days

New!  “FNB”  Flexible Noise Barrier. Concerned about flammability and the PVC content of MLV- use FNB instead – CALL!

Soundproofing a House

A walking tour…..  using soundproofing products.

You swing out briskly walking trying to keep up with Robby, the clean-cut guy you met touring his apartment soundproofing job.

“Hey! Wait up, Robby!”  You puff.  ”You’re going too fast!”

He slows a bit and says:  “We’ll have to hurry to get it all in, especially if you want to look at all the stuff I’m going to show you.  But anyway, here we are!”   Together you enter a average looking two story house on a quiet street.  

Folks on the street idly eye you both  as Robby’s key opens the door.

You enter a wide hallway with doors leading off in different directions.

Robby speaks: ”You’ll notice the doors in the hallway do not line up across from each other.  That’s so sound doesn’t transfer across and through opposite open doors.  This is one of the little known principles of soundproofing, called “staggering”.

“At the end of the hall is the basement. we can visit that at any time you like to see what special methods are needed for a good soundproofing job. One of these doors (a ‘double-door’, this side opening in, the other opening out), leads to the garage, where I’ll show you how we soundproofed it for band practice.

You notice that while the floor is hardwood, the wallpaper  covered the “Super Soundproofing mat” on the walls and ceiling contribute to the richness of the sound of your footsteps.

He comments:

“At least 25% of a room should have some absorbent material to reduce reverberation.   This can be furniture, carpet, or whatever.  If the balance is right the sound is rather pleasant. Lets go up the stairs”.   You follow obediently.

At the top of the stairs, another hallway is presented.  Again, doors open  off to the sides.

Robby says:  ”Here we have carpet on the floor of the hallway to absorb sound because this is mostly a bedroom area.  Not much need be done for soundproofing purposes except for the bedroom floors as this is already a quiet area”.

“That door over there leads to a small apartment over the garage.  And that one is a “safe room“.

He pushes open  one of the doors.  “In this bedroom here, we must have something on the floor for soundproofing as this room is right over the living room.   Here we have made the floor a major part of our soundproofing effort.  Take these x-ray glasses and have a look.”

He hands you that appears to be a small video camera.

“See, on the LCD screen you can see right through the structure of whatever you point it at.  Adjust the “focus” to see further or less into the floor”.

“We call them our “Super Soundproofing Looking Glasses”. he says proudly.

With a little practice you can look at the underlying structure of the flooring through the camera.

Clearly you can see the floor joists, the sub flooring and their overlays.

“What’s so special about this?”  You ask.

“Well, not much except that we’ve taken the trouble to put  “Soundboard” up between the rafters from below and selected special recycled carpet padding for the overlay.  The most important item is the use of the “Super Soundproofing Floor Mat”.  It’s what they call a loaded vinyl and weighs about one pound per square foot.  That makes it an excellent soundproofing material”

“Could you use something else?”

“Sure, some inexpensive things like acoustical ceiling panels could be used instead of the Soundboard, but there’s not much of a price differential.  The recycled carpet padding costs even less than regular padding!  The SSP flooring replaces lead sheeting and is fairly expensive but there is no inexpensive substitute”.

“My ceiling has lots of noise because the flooring above it has squeaks!”

“Can you make repairs from above?  Usually renailing it will quiet it down”.

“No” You tell him.

“Tear down your ceiling and woodscrew triangular wood strips to the flooring above and to the joists.  It helps if you use a copious amount of “Liquid Nails” adhesive. This will keep the flooring above from moving about and stop the squeaking.   You’ll probably want to add some Soundboard or Homosote in between the rafters before putting your ceiling back in.  They should have taped the tops of the joists before putting down the subfloor!”

“Good Idea!”  You wave the camera about.  ”Say, I’m beginning to really like this device!”  You notice as you adjust the “focus” that you can see for quite a distance right into the house next door!

“Well, take a look with it down into the walls of the rooms below, to see how we staggered the studding.  This provides vibration isolation from one wall to the other, prevent sound transfer from room to room”.

“Yes, yes!  I can see it clearly!”

“You can do this with tape to existing wall studding, too!”

“The some of the other things  we could have done to improve on the soundproofing of these walls is to add another layer of drywall to them.  We would have specified more 5/8″ “fire code” drywall. This would be  done by placing them on “hangers”: resilient channels or sound clips used as vibration isolators.  They also space the drywall out somewhat from the existing wall so there is an increased air space. We did use this type of “double drywall” on the walls facing the street.  This adds to the soundproofing effectiveness.  What you probably can’t see is that we placed “flooring” (MLV <Mass Loaded Vinyl>)in between the drywall panels and took the time to carefully caulk around the drywall so as to eliminate any spaces sound can enter or come out.

We  staggered our electrical boxes, one sire to the other, placing them at least two feet apart where possible.  We also caulked around them thoroughly”.

“I see you used blown in insulation”.

“Yes, more for convenience.  If we had used “R-14″ we would have used the compacted kind for added soundproofing over the regular kind, sometimes referred to as C-703 or C-705.  We could have stapled asphalt roll roofing to the studding but for the odor, but the insulation guys come with a truck and do the walls and attic all at the same time.  Remember, this was new construction.   Even though the soundproofing effectiveness of the roofing material is greater than the insulation and is cheaper, we did it for convenience”.  Mass Loaded Vinyl or lead is superior to all of the above, but is more costly.

You look around the bedroom. ”What about those windows?”

“We used double paned glass and vinyl frames.  These are a bit more expensive, but not as expensive as true acoustical windows. Over the life of the house, acoustical windows are well worth it.  We put shutters on the inside and if we have trouble with a noisy neighbor, a party or something and really need to get to sleep, we just stuff a  layer of 2″ thick Super Soundproofing Mat in the window.  It’s thick enough to stand in place by friction. If a more permanent installation is needed, we can visit the windows section to see how it’s done”.    In a place where we must have light along with substantial sound reduction, we use a interior  windows custom made to fit inside the frame. Acoustical Drapes/Curtains are an alternative, too.

You say: ”Let’s get on with the tour!”

“Bear in mind that these types of improvements increase the value of a home drastically, especially when you’re the one living here!”  He says.

“Flip that switch on the camera and you convert it to an Infared Scanner! Now you can see temperature differences were heat is leaking from cracks and seals.  Such air leaks means sounds can migrate through, because sound is a lot like water, it will find the path of least resistance.”

“Now, shall we go up to the attic and check out the insulation or down to the basement or garage to see how it’s soundproofed for band practice?”

Want a copy of the EPA’s out-of-print popular book on Soundproofing?  ”QUIETING: A Practical Guide to Noise Control”.   (Over a hundred 8.5″X11″pages).  Read this and you won’t need a consultant! Info on homes, walls, materials, STC ratings and much more!  Many illustrations. Available for just $15 PP to cover copying costs and postage. You can download it too!

SOUNDPROOFING WALLS/CEILINGS USING RESILIENT CHANNEL AND ACOUSTICAL MAT TO MAKE A SOUND DEADENING WALL (or Ceiling).

The partition walls in most family homes are constructed of Drywall (Sheetrock/Gypsum Board) firmly attached to both sides of a wood or metal stud frame. When sound waves hit one side of the wall it causes the drywall on that side to vibrate. Since the drywall is rigidly connected to the stud frame, the vibration is transmitted right through the studwork to the drywall on the other side and re-radiated. Those same vibrations traveling through the studwork can also duct noise throughout adjacent floors and ceilings. Noise will radiate easily through the structure because there’s almost nothing there to isolate or absorb the sound waves.To reduce this effect and to dampen the sound waves, resilient metal channels can be inserted between one of the drywall walls and the studwork. The resilient channels act as shock absorbers, greatly reducing vibrations coming from either side of the wall from passing through the wall. Absorbent mat is used inside the wall to cushion the channel/drywall and to provide an absorbent compartment to trap sound waves.

The resilient channel technique by itself typically adds 3 to 5 (or more) Sound Transmission Class (STC) points to an otherwise identical wall or ceiling. This by itself, is not usually sufficient to meet total noise level reduction requirements under most circumstances. Other added construction materials and techniques are usually needed, such as adding absorbent mat and/or barrier material to the wall space. Some considerations are the amount of wall space that can be donated as mounting the wallboard on these 1/2″ thick channels increases the thickness of the wall (or ceiling) somewhat.

It is important to distinguish acoustically effective resilient channels from hat channels, Z-channels and other lightweight metal furring systems that drywall contractors are used to installing. These other systems may resemble resilient channels, but they allow no movement and are simply too rigid to be effective. Only true resilient channels have any acoustical benefit.

It is extremely important to install these channels correctly. Improper installation will nullify any advantage gained from using it in the first place.

There are a few simple procedures that need to be followed when using them. In existing walls, large opening should be cut in the drywall panels to Open Up the wall and expose the dead air to the new wall covering. One large dead air space that is created and linked together contributes greatly to the sound control system. In fact, adding furring strips (spacing blocks) of 1″-2″ increases the sound reduction effect (especially at low frequencies of sound) by increasing the dead airspace. The channels are then applied directly over Super Soundproofing MLV barrier mat that should be first used to cover the wall. The new drywall panels are then coated with absorbent closed cell matting material to create an absorbent compartment to dampen sound waves. The absorbent mat is applied like wallpaper using contact cement and a roller. The thickness of material used depends on the level of sound control desired: More is better! In an open, studded wall, sound barrier material (MLV) is typically stapled to the studs, but for best results, between a layer of soundboard and drywall attached to the channels, even though it can be cut and weaved between the studding. On walls and ceilings, the channel should be mounted at a right angle to the framing. On walls, mount with the narrow flange along the bottom and the larger flange up. This allows the drywall€™s weight to draw itself away from the framing. Make sure all the flanges should are pointing in the same direction.
When fastening the drywall to the channels, the mounting screws are to be driven into the channels in-between the studs or joists. It is absolutely critical not to “short out” the resilient channels by screwing long screws into the studs behind them. This rigid connection would destroy their benefit of Floating the wall or ceiling assembly.
The resilient channels should be held back from intersecting surfaces about ¼” on the side edges, and about 4-6″ from the top and bottom of the wall.

It does little good to carefully attach the channels in the middle of the wall if one installs baseboard screws that may connect the entire bottom edge to sill plates. Similarly, it is easy to “short out” the resilient channels at the top of the wall by screwing into headers. Leave space where the wallboard is not connected. The drywall attached to the channels also needs to be held back about ¼” from similar intersecting corners. If the drywall panel edges are jammed against wall or ceiling panels, then they will tend to be rendered ineffective. For walls, the drywall edges should be resting on neoprene vibration pads and sealed with caulk before the wall is finish taped and painted. This provides a supporting base on which to mount the wall and Unload the channels from the weight of the drywall panels. Use 2 of the 2″ pads per vertical sheet of drywall or, 1 every 2′ or so.. The weight of the drywall will tend to crush the drywall edge down on the pad, narrowing the gap to the floor to be sealed. The gaps should then be sealed, as air-tight as physically possible, with plenty of flexible non-hardening caulk. “Backer Square” or Lead tape can also be used for this.

When the resilient channels are properly installed, it should be possible to push and slightly flex the wall or ceiling surface. A lack of flex indicates that the channels too rigid, perhaps because they are shorted out by too long of screws fastened into the wood framing. Also, it usually does not matter which side of the wall is resiliently hung. Of course, doing both sides of the wall is better. For ceilings, use RC-2, which is simply two-legged RC-1. If not readily available, RC-1 can be used but more of it is needed.

To reduce this effect and to dampen the sound waves, resilient metal channels can be inserted between one of the drywall walls and the studwork. The resilient channels acts as shock absorbers, greatly reducing vibrations coming from either side of the wall from passing through the wall. Absorbent mat is used to cushion the channel/drywall and to provide an absorbent compartment to trap sound waves.

The resilient channel technique by itself typically adds 3 to 5 Sound Transmission Class (STC) points to an otherwise identical wall or ceiling. This by itself, is not usually sufficient to meet total noise level reduction requirements under most circumstances. Other added construction materials and techniques are usually needed, such as adding absorbent mat and/or barrier material to the wall space. Some considerations are the amount of wall space that can be donated as mounting the wallboard on 1/2″ channels increases the thickness of the wall (or ceiling) somewhat.

It is important to distinguish acoustically effective resilient channels from hat channels, z-channels, and other lightweight metal furring systems that drywall contractors are used to installing. These other systems may resemble resilient channels, but they allow no movement and are simply too rigid to be effective. Only true resilient channels have any acoustical benefit. A diagram of a typical channel is shown below.

It is extremely important to install these channels correctly. Improper installation will nullify any advantage gained from using it in the first place.

There are a few simple procedures that need to be followed when using them. On walls and ceilings, the channel should be mounted at a right angle to the framing. On walls, mount with the narrow flange along the bottom and the larger flange up. This allows the drywalls weight to draw itself away from the framing. Also, the flanges should all be pointing in the same direction.

When fastening the drywall, the screws are to be connected to the channels in-between the studs or joists. It is absolutely critical not to “short out” the resilient channels by screwing long screws into the wood studs behind them. This rigid connection would destroy their benefit. In existing walls, the channels are applied directly over Super Soundproofing acoustical mat that should be used to cover the wall first. The absorbent, closed dead air space that is created contributes greatly to the sound control system. In fact, adding furring strips (spacing blocks) of 1″-2″ increases the sound reduction effect by increasing the dead airspace. The absorbent mat is applied like wallpaper using contact cement and a roller. The thickness of material used depends on the level of sound control desired: More is better! Sound Barrier material (MLV) is typically stapled to the studs or over the wall. In an open, studded wall, the mat is applied over the studs but for best results, between a layer of sound deadening board and drywall, even though it can be cut and fitted between the studding. Then tape off and paint the sound deadening wall.

The resilient channels should be held back from intersecting surfaces about ¼” on the side edges, and about 4-6″ at the top and bottom of the wall. It does little good to carefully attach the channels in the middle of the wall if one installs baseboard screws that may connect the entire bottom edge to sill plates. Similarly, it is easy to “short out” the resilient channels at the top of the wall by screwing into headers. Leave space where the wallboard is not connected. The drywall attached to the channels also needs to be held back about ¼” from similar intersecting corners. If the drywall panels are jammed against the edges, then they will tend to be rendered ineffective. For sound deadening walls, the drywall should best be resting on neoprene vibration pads and sealed with caulk before the wall is finish taped and painted. This provides a resilient base on which to mount the wall and better close the gap at the bottom of the wall. Use 2 of the 2″ pads per vertical sheet of drywall or, 1 every 2′ or so.. The weight of the drywall will tend to crush the drywall edge down on the pad, narrowing the gap to the floor to be sealed. The gaps should then be sealed, as air-tight as physically possible, with plenty of flexible non-hardening acoustical caulk. Backer Square” or Lead tape can also be used for this.

When the resilient channels are properly installed, it should be possible to slightly flex the wall or ceiling surface. A lack of flex indicates that the channels too rigid, perhaps because they are shorted out by too long of screws fastened into the wood framing. Also, it usually does not matter which side of the wall is resiliently hung. Of course, doing both sides of the wall is better. For ceilings, use RC-2, which is simply two-legged RC-1.   If not readily available, RC-1 can be used but more of it is needed.

click> Old Method New Method> click

Resilient Channels and “Soundboard”

Sound deadening board is a material made from compressed wood fibers. Another similar trade name is”Homasote” ( Somewhat better, but considerably more expensive) and it functions as a thick paper cushion. “Celotex”also makes a version. It used to be that the theory was that soundboard would provide basic resilient isolation for the drywall layers over it. However, screws or nails breach the system and reduce the isolation to the point where, acoustically speaking, it would be better to replace the screws with construction adhesive as much as possible. When using resilient channel and double layers, use extra care to screw the drywall mostly into the soundboard and not through to the metal channels and not to touch studs underneath. The benefit is that the different physical acoustical properties of the drywall and soundboard complement each other, improving sound reduction qualities. Mass loaded barrier is appropriately used between the soundboard and drywall for many added STC points. A construction adhesive like “Liquid Nails” may be used to attach it, but staples work better..

DESCRIPTION:

WHAT IT IS!

click> (Note the large flange is up) DWFC (DryWall Furring Channel)

Resilient channel is a thin metal channel designed to substantially improve the sound insulation of drywall, sheetrock and plasterboard walls and ceilings. The channel effectively isolates the drywall from the framing studwork, reducing direct contact to help dissipate sound which would normally be directly transferred through the frame. This system is easy to install and produces dramatic results. The channels measure about 1/2″ in thickness and the wide flange (drywall mount) is about a 1 1/4″ wide. The vibration absorption properties of the channel can be additionally enhanced by applying thin (1/8″) “Super Soundproofing Absorbent Tape” to the flange of the drywall mount. If not using the RC channel alone or Sound Clips and DWFC, at least use the tape on the face of the studs.

Example:

A standard metal framed stud partition lined both sides with ½” drywall with fiberglass insulation in the wall cavity, (Note: “Packing” in the insulation many may think increases the thermal properties, but it will definitely decrease sound reduction), gives an STC rating of around 20-25 or less.

Conversation can be heard).

The same wall, but with just resilient channel between the drywall and frame, to one side only, can increase the rating to as high as a STC rating of 35 or so. (Now, only loud shouting can be heard).

Even greater improvements in soundproofing the wall can be gained by:

* adding an additional layer of drywall on channel to the other side.

* adding a layer of “Wonderboard” or “Duroc” a concrete based construction material to add more mass (this will help reduce low frequency sound). Add to existing wall, first.

* adding a layer of “Super Soundproofing Silencer “Mass Loaded” Barrier” to the existing wall or adding a layer of Super Soundproofing absorbent Mat” to the existing wall, or both.

* mounting “Soundboard” (Celotex-sound deadening board) or “Homasote” to the channels before the drywall is attached. Caulk and seal the edges of the panels for best results.

* using natural cotton fiber instead of fiberglass batting.

For maximum effect and best results: use “all of the above”.

Channel Cutting: Resilient Channel can easily be cut with tin-snips or hacksaw.

Installation: Walls require less channel than a ceiling for obvious reasons. If they are to be fitted directly to the underside of an existing ceiling, furring strips should be screwed to the ceiling at 2′ centers, right angle to the joists.

The absorbent mat of the appropriate thickness should be applied inside the joists/studding before this stage.

Care must be taken to ensure that the attachments used are secured to the underlying joists where they cross and NOT just to the existing drywall.

The channel should be screwed to all of the strips with drywall screws. Channel should be joined by overlapping them by a few inches with the corrugated webs nested together and BOTH base flanges screwed through to the strip beneath. A “pop” rivet would add extra security to the channel joint.

Drywall Installation: Furring strips are usually not required unless added dead air space is needed in the new wall/ceiling. A panel of 5/8″ “Firecode” Drywall, or similar composite (“Sheetrock, Plasterboard”, “Gypsum board” etc), should be used and fitted to within ¼” of the surrounding walls/ceiling. Joints should be staggered in all directions. ALL joints should be secured to the resilient strip with the appropriate length screws close to their edges. Adding our tape to the channel pads the metal where it touches the wallboard. (If the panel is not covered with mat already).

Attaching: Secure the first of the material to be used to the resilient channel with the appropriate length drywall screws, making sure that the screws ONLY penetrate the corrugated web part of the resilient channel. IT IS ESSENTIAL THAT THE SCREWS ONLY PENETRATE THE CORRUGATED WEBS AND DO NOT COME INTO CONTACT WITH THE RESILIENT channel base SUPPORTS OR furring strips. Do not overly tighten the screws or they may pull through the thin metal channel. Just “snug” them.

Attach the second layer of material (drywall) using the correct length LONGER screws taking care to offset the joints of the first layer and screw only into the first layer of material, not into the resilient channel. (If not using a panel adhesive, a few screws may be put through to the channel if need be). A ball peen hammer will dimple the drywall for help in setting the screw heads. Do not break the paper facing of the drywall panels with the screws as a reduction of strength will result.

Edge Sealant: Flexible acoustical caulking compound that will remain flexible for years should be applied to ALL the edge perimeters after the installation of EACH layer to achieve optimum results.

Finishing:

All drywall joints should be finished with traditional jointing methods and plaster covered before painting/decorating the deadening wall in the normal manner. Do not heavily “mud” the gaps. (Tape and Paint). Protruding screws may be lightly tapped with a hammer and carefully tightened some more by hand.

Resilient Channel: Part/Number: “RC-1″

Dimensions: Steel Gauge : .018

Weight : approx. 0.37Kg/m

Length : Cut for UPS shipping: ( 6′)

Availability: Manufactured by “Unimast”. Check with them or your local Builders Supply for availability in 12′ length, otherwise order from us. (We cut to 6′ for UPS shipping:). We also have RC-2 and DWFC.

Performance:

When installed beneath an existing ceiling with soundproofing absorbent material applied as above, improvements in reducing both airborne noise and impact sound would normally be well in excess of 300%. This means a STC in excess of 50: (Loud shouting can€™t be heard). Fire resistance would be about 1 hour.

TIPS for Walls:

Don’t allow the drywall sheets to set directly on the floor. Use vibration pads made of ribbed neoprene and cork to place under drywall sheets for support when used for walls. Caulk well. Stagger joints. Use metal tape on underlying joints. Caulk well. Don’t screw baseboard onto both the pads and the wall base sill.

Alternative installation of absorbent mat: apply to the inside wall or ceiling panel to be fitted against the resilient channel. This may be somewhat easier than applying it to the existing wall or ceiling. Adding natural cotton fiber instead of fiberglass batting will drastically increase both thermal and sound insulation.

When installing the channel over thicker mat (like 1″), don’t pull mounting screws down too tightly. This will deform the channel. Don’t break the covering paper of the drywall with the screw!

Remodeling a typical wall for average sound reduction: Apply Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV) directly to the existing wall. (Two layers is best). Stapling will hold it temporarily in place. Now install at least one layer of 5/8″ firecode drywall over it. Tape off and paint your sound deadening wall. This will more than double the sound reduction of the existing wall.

Remodeling a typical wall for even more sound reduction: (Where existing wall has little or no sound blocking qualities). Take drywall off on one side, then the joists/studding, electrical boxes inside is caulked well (make sure both sides do not have boxes in line or sound will have a direct path through the wall!) and our 1/4″ acoustical mat is glued to the opposite inside wall and the exposed studding is covered, too. Our “Silencer” flooring (MLV) is stapled to the joists/studding, covering the ceiling/wall completely. Seams are sealed with caulk or tape. (Lead tape improves the seam seal). For an 8′ high wall, three RC-1 channels are installed horizontally over the wall, one in the middle, one at the top and bottom, located a few inches down to avoid the footer and header. Then 5/8″ “firecode” drywall (this is now also available with a lead foil covering) and is laid out on sawhorses and covered with a layer of the 1/4″ foam mat using contact cement and a roller. These panels are installed with foam facing the channels with screws and is supported by 2″ square vibration pads located every 2 feet or so. The bottom of the drywall is caulked tight and the seams too.

To help fill the gap and reduce the amount of caulk use “Backer Square”

Additional soundproofing material will increase the sound control ability of the wall in proportion to the type and amount added, such as adhering additional panels together with “Green Glue” which increases the mass of the wall. The visco-elastic glue acts as a sound dampener as well.

Be sure to cover the entire wall, no gaps left open. Gaps amounting to 2-3% of the wall covered can reduce the effectiveness of the job by 50%!

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Due to vast differences in the care taken using these installation techniques, information contained in these instructions is given in good faith but without any kind of warranty.

The EPA Manual has more information on this and other techniques.

See our prices pages for product/cost information and availability or call for free consulting! 760-752-3030

NEW! Sound Control Clips with DWFC hold the panels better and are easier to install than resilient channel: Get more than double the STC of resilient channel!  Call about the new SuperSound Clips and DWFC.

We have Green Glue too!

Using Attic Insulation for Sound Control

“How do you know if the attic needs insulation?” You ask Robby.

“Previously, insulation of the attic was done for thermal reasons, to keep the house more cool in the summer and warmer in the winter. Just as important is the acoustical benefits of insulation. If your present house is drafty and suffers wide temperature changes, adding insulation is a practical solution. Up to 30% of the heat or cooling can be lost through the attic in a poorly insulated attic.

Half can be lost through conduction, the other half through air leakage around fixtures, plumbing, electrical boxes and so on. This can cost you several hundreds of dollars a year, depending on where you live. Lately, lots more emphasis has been placed on the acoustical properties of sealing the attic”. Robby answers.

“How much insulation is enough and what about the cost?”

“Well, R-34 is a reasonable level, but R-40 is the standard for new homes in cold climes. New materials on the market improve the acoustics without sacrificing thermal qualities. But, just think, you can reduce the 50% losses yourself, right now, by properly caulking up around cracks and holes! This amounts to real dollar savings and raises the comfort level in the home. During hot days, high amounts of heat is trapped in the attic, migrating into the living areas. This high heat can also damage the wood in your house, causing premature replacement of structural members”. Sealing also reduces noise migration either into or out of the house, too.

He continues:

“The true direct cost has to be determined and payback figured by the cost of fuel and/or electricity in your area versus the reduction in heat loss. Usually these things pay for themselves in a short period of time”.

“Can I do it myself?”

“Sure. This is not a difficult job and certainly within the range of work any handy person. But it’s not a pleasant job. It’s messy and can be cramping. Where the insulation can be blown in, little can be saved by doing it yourself. Using a contractor who specializes in this is the best choice. Be sure to get several written quotes. Find out how much the material will cost you to buy and subtract that from the lowest quote, then you can see what you’ll save in labor by doing it yourself”.

“Don’t forget the soundproofing value of a well insulated house. Aircraft noise will be less, and neighborhood noise will be less noticeable. There’s no price you can put on the reduction of stress! This adds real value to your home”.

“What kind of insulation is best?”

“People tell us that the best results for BOTH thermal and acoustic benefit is cut-wool fiber insulation”.

One reputable name for blow-in material is Nu-Wool, they also have a product called “Wall-Seal” which is a spray-on insulation with acoustical properties. This is, however, a cellulose based material.

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Join us now for another virtual tour through a soundproof basement project

Robby is the young dude you met when you visited his soundproofed apartment. He seems a little more friendly now, perhaps because you’ve already met.

€œI joined a band€ he explains. “then we found we needed a place to practice. We had the cops come a few times before we realized we absolutely needed a place quiet enough where we wouldn’t disturb the neighbors”! (more)

“What did you do”? You inquire.

“At first, we had some luck by moving the practice out to the country, but that was not practical for all members of the band. We tried a large room in the back of a house and then a large garage, but that was no good at all. We always found we needed soundproofing. Some of the guys tried out their ideas of egg cartons and mattresses, but that turned out to be a joke, a real waste of time and money!”

” We knew we needed solid walls, so we tried putting the practice in a basement, but the sound just went up through the house and out as well as out the windows of the basement. We were now certain we had to make a serious effort to soundproof our practice area and figured the basement was the best place to start. Reading up on the subject here at the website, we found that masonry is a good soundproofing material and our basement was quite full of it!”

“What seemed to be the biggest obstacle to soundproofing the basement, the sound passing up into the house”?

“Well yes, we knew it probably wouldn’t be possible to do good enough of a job to allow watching TV upstairs while we practiced, we are really loud! But we wanted to at least keep the neighbors happy! Any soundproofing effort has limitations, translating to a question of time and money. Different levels of soundproofing are reached with a different application level of effort and materials. Neighbors have different annoyance levels too. Perhaps some acceptable level can be reached with a minimum effort and money, but maybe one has to go “all out” from the beginning. This is what we decided to do, at the same time trying to substitute cheap labor, (the bands), for costly materials”.

“Did you make a plan”?

“Yes, we decided to carefully survey what would be required by reading everything here on the web site and to then select materials and determine a systematic method to apply them. The guys at the website were very helpful, too”. (760) 752 3030

“How did it work out”?

“C’mon, let’s go downstairs”! He points to a door.

You stop to examine the door. “Say, this seems a bit unusual”.

Yes,” he explains. “This is a solid core “outside” or “exterior” solid core door. You’ll notice it has padding on both sides of it.  The inside padding is cut a little oversize so as to provide a seal over the crack around the doorjamb. We used gasket material (tape) for additional sealing.

We left the regular interior door in place and added this door, creating a kind of “Airlock”!

You follow him down the stairs into the basement, shutting the doors carefully behind. You enter an area that seems muffled, noticeably quieter, yet somehow full bodied. Obviously, the acoustics were much improved.

EXPAND

“This house has part of the basement exposed above ground so we elected to soundproof the entire outside walls from top to bottom, rather than just the part that was exposed to the outside. This proved to be a good move. We first applied a vapor barrier, studding and MLV sound barrier under 5/8″ drywall. Again, the mat would be first choice, but for the expense. We also could have used asphalt roofing material as it’s also cheap, but has an odor. We did save money by not using resilient channel or rubber sound clips, we just taped the studding with the stud isolation tape for padding”.

“What about the windows? You ask.

“They are now history, because of the excellent way glass transmits sound energy. They are still in place, but we first sealed them with caulking compound. Then we cut 2″ Super Soundproofing Mat slabs to a little over the inside frame size and forced them in, again sealing the edges. We then covered the entire window frame with Celotex ceiling tile cut to fit even with the basement wall. We could have made removable“Plugs”, but because we don’t care about the light, or need to open them, we didn’t bother.

This is a large basement so we weren’t concerned with losing space to the false walls we constructed by studding away from the cement block walls. The walls were built so that none of it touches the rest of the building except through isolation mounts. It is thusly suspended. We made the mounts from vibration isolation pads obtained from the web site, spaced about 2 feet apart. We framed it using as few studs as possible and placed more “Soundboard” inside the framing. It is spaced out from the house basement wall about six inches, creating a dead air space. On the outside is Gypsum wallboard, thin soundproofing mat (1/4″), and then a layer of Celotex ceiling tiles for looks. We used as few nails as possible to aid vibration isolation! When the wall was in place we caulked all around the edges of its rubber mounting, sealing all cracks and crevices”.

You look around. “I see the lights are not built into the ceiling”!

“Remember, the ceiling is for soundproofing! We didn’t want holes in it! The ceiling is quite high, so we could suspend the light fixtures from the dropped ceiling easily using chains”.  Otherwise, we’d use indirect lighting or low profifle tube lighting.

Say, Robby, what are these”? You indicate some large wheeled portable panels covered with acoustical soundproofing material.

“We found that the low frequency from the drums was still noticeable outside, so following the principal of attenuation of sound at the source, we made these panels from 3/4″ plywood covered with Super Sound Proofing Mat . Under the mat we applied asphalt roll roofing with staples. We cut some panels in two and hinged them for storage. They open like a “V” on it’s side. We pull the panels over to surround the drums and put them back out of the way when not needed”.

“Did you run into anything unusual in doing this job”?

“Yes indeedy! We discovered the furnace ducting was carrying the sound of the band up and out of the basement”!

“Then what did you do”?

“We painted the ducting inside with Super Soundproofing Liquid, then covered it with the mat. We still had a bit of a problem, because the sound was following the ducting, so we made a hinged door the fits inside the duct. It is covered with the mat and is hinged closed so as to swing open when air passes through the duct. Otherwise it’s closed at all times, effectively blocking any sound through the ducting. That took care of the problem. Ducting made of fiberglass instead of metal would have perhaps prevented the problem in the first place”.

“Can you give me some pointers”?

“Sure! Before you even start, make sure all cracks where sound can escape are sealed! Cover the windows! Cover and seal the doors! Provide mounting isolation to your sound walls and seal them too! Forget about built in flush lighting, hang ‘em outside! Paint metal ducts with Liquid sound proofing and cover them with mat! Make and use portable acoustical barriers! Use common materials if possible, but when you need it, don’t be afraid to use professional stuff! BTW, egg cartons are not suitable for sound proofing, nor is fiberglass batting”! (A better replacement for fiberglass batting is Natural Cotton Fiber).

“What happens if you do all this and it’s still not enough?”

“You can always put MLV under the carpet upstairs!”

“Thanks, Robby, you’ve been a big help”! I’ve got to go home now.

“Thanks for coming!

NEED HELP!?:
Any questions or pointers of your own, please post to the Q&A Forum Discussion Group so everyone can see the answers!! (See the sidebar).

Call us for free info from one of our sound control Specialists or visit us!

760-752-3030 8-5 PT

Soundproofing a Generator! (or other noisy something in a box!)

We’ve upgraded the basic generator soundproofing info from the book: “Quieting: a practical guide to noise control“. The new system is shown below. It is based on the fact that air will go around corners well, whereas sound doesn’t like to. This baffling method works well for pool pumps and many other kinds of noise sources.

Enclosure is best made of panels of “Soundboard” or “Homasote” (from the hardwood store), with corner support strips of wood (not shown). screwed, (not just nailed) and glued for strength. Plywood is not recommended because wood transmits sound so readily. “MDF” Medium Density Fiberboard is best. A lined, triple wall box as shown is the most effective, but sometimes a double box may work well enough, depending on the level of sound control needed.

For maximum effect, use the 2″ thick “Super Soundproofing Mat” for lining your box. Make sure the box is entirely covered: no gaps. Cement edges for a tight fit. If in a damp environment, use our contact cement as it has a mildew resistant retardant in it. See the “Prices” page for ordering and price info. (On the sidebar). Cut strips of mat for the airtight seal for the bottom edge.
Leave about an inch between the inner and outer boxes for air circulation.

Lead or mass loaded vinyl can be attached over the box for even more sound control. Edges must be sealed! Use lead tape and the non-hardening acoustical caulk available on our prices page.

Vibration pads should be used for isolation of the noise source to the floor. Probably not needed if floor is concrete.

Wrapping the pump or motor is an additional way of reducing the sound emitted by it. Leave the ends open if needed for ventilation. Use lead or mass loaded vinyl. Tie it in place with wire or nylon “Tie wraps”.

If a pump, isolate the in/out pipes by cutting out a section at the pump and replacing with rubber hose. Automotive radiator hose works well. Don’t allow the inlet/outlet pipes to contact the box and be sure to insulate the openings.

Keep the box as small as practical to reduce “drum” effect and if possible, locate the box to the other side of walls, other natural barriers, etc. If located next to a wall, sound reflection from it to or through the wall can be reduced by covering the wall with thin absorbent mat.

Concerned about temperature inside your box? Don’t know if you need fans? Use a meat thermometer inserted through a hole drilled in the box to monitor temperature. Check with the manufacturer to find the temperature tolerance of your noise source.
(Small computer power supply box fans move a lot of air are cheap and can run on 12VDC or 110AC).

Muffler noise: Best to use a small car muffler as a replacement for your generator muffler. Of course, all muffler exhaust must be directed outside the box!

How to figure how much mat is needed: determine the total square footage of the box you are lining, (width times length), then divide by four for acoustical mat and/or Mass Loaded Vinyl. (These are the widths of the rolls we cut the material from). This will give you the lineal or “running” feet we sell the material by.

You can call us if you need help! 1- 760-752-3030 9-5 Pacific time 5 days.