Super Soundproofing

Archive for the ‘How To Do It’ Category

YOUR MUSIC PRACTICE – SOUNDPROOFING TIPS For Musicians

You should give careful thought to the selection of a place to play your music!

Soundproofing should be done as a last resort. It can be expensive and time consuming.

Commercial locations are best because people go home around 5 PM, just when musicians may start to be creative!

If playing locally, try to anticipate conflicts. Neighbors who may complain, either next door or even way down the street may cause you lots of grief. Before you start playing, go and meet whoever could be a problem and make it clear that you have consideration for them. This advice alone can save you lots of soundproofing dollars! Mentioning that you plan to soundproof if it needs it is a real plus. Give them your phone number to call instead of the police. Once they start complaining, real expensive soundproofing effort may not be enough! A little “PR” will go a long way!

No neighbors nearby or at all would be the best solution of all!

If you can’t take your practice someplace where the sound will not be a problem for someone, try to choose the best place for your practice room where the level of annoyance will be at a minimum. The basement is best, followed by a room (or building) located as far from a potential complainer as possible. Masonry makes the best soundproofing material, especially for low frequencies, like drums. Garages are difficult because of the large door opening. Our portable sound booth could be placed in a garage or even a room. A mobile sound practice studio may fit your needs.

Windows are your enemy because they pass sound so readily. Hollow core doors are also almost transparent to sound. (Any door that’s unsealed will pass sound easily). Don’t think carpet and egg-crate material will help soundproof anything, they’ll just make the music room “dead”, seemingly soundproof.  Sometimes, adequate sound reduction can be had with a “Double-Drywall” technique where a layer of drywall is applied over the existing wall, (and/or ceiling) with visco-elastic coating,  suspended on resilient metal channels  or sound clips with a layer of thin acoustical absorbent mat in between.  This provides more mass, vibration isolation and absorbency with one technique.

In many cases, the best solution to a very high volume of noise is a “Room-within-a-room” with the inner walls a foot or so from the existing walls. Covering the walls with acoustical mat will certainly help, but it’s hard to predict to what degree. Perhaps a floatingdrummers pad or even a full floating floor or room will help.  This means some knowledge of sound control and carpentry is needed to do some non-structural construction. Careful attention to certain details (not mentioned on the site), could mean the difference between success and failure of your sound reduction project!  (You’ll get these vital details when you become our customer!)

A typical practice room would have sound barrier material applied to the old walls before building a false wall and ceiling out from that wall a foot or two. The airspace between must be sealed off with caulk and be a complete compartment of itself. (Each wall, ceiling and floor). Another layer of barrier, resilient channel and a layer of  “Homasote” or “Green Glue” and drywall would complete the walls and ceiling.

For a door, use an exterior door, or better, two doors opening opposite ways. More on doors.

Specifics about these methods and materials, including illustrations and detailed instructions on construction can be had from our Internet web pages. Our soundproof booth may be of interest. We have panels that can be simply hung on the existing walls, too.

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Choosing Microphones for Recording Studio, Continued Expert Village Jul. 31, 2006. 11:03 PM EST In this instructional video, you will learn about the best kinds of microphones to use when assembling your own recording studio.

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Microphones in a Professional Recording Studio Expert Village Jul. 31, 2006. 11:03 PM EST Learn about microphones for a professional recording studio in this how-to video clip on professional recording equipment.

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The Preamplifier (Preamp) in a Professional Recording Studio Expert Village Jul. 31, 2006. 11:03 PM EST Learn the function of the preamplifier, or preamp, in a professional recording studio in this how-to video clip on professional recording equipment.

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Recording Studio Software Used in a Professional Recording Studio Expert Village Jul. 31, 2006. 11:03 PM EST Learn what types of recording studio software are available in this how-to video clip on professional recording equipment.

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Soundproofing a Professional Recording Studio Expert Village Jul. 31, 2006. 11:03 PM EST Learn how to soundproof a professional recording studio in this how-to video clip on professional recording equipment.

COMMON SOUNDPROOFING MYTHS

Save time by avoiding these common soundproofing errors!

As a service to those doing their own analysis, noise control planning and sound proofing, we’ve prepared this list of Don’t.  We can’t explore every aspect of doing a good soundproofing job, but avoiding certain materials and processes can save you lots of time and money.  Don’t waste time and money on ineffectiveness.  If you have lots of  time and wish to experiment with different techniques and unknown materials, please do so!  (and let us know how it comes out!).  Many people have made the errors mentioned here and some have been kind enough to pass them on to us for inclusion.  Please feel free to contribute!

Get Help!

If you have anything but a simple problem and the solution isn’t obvious, get help!  No need to figure this out all by yourself, it’s too easy to make expensive mistakes.  There ARE many experts doing work in this field.   Most states require them to be licensed. You can find help in the local yellow pages under “Acoustics” or check with your local building code department or state contractors license board.  For a contractor to work under your direction, locate one using the contractor locater service, such as “Improvenet.com“,  listed at the bottom of our pages.  At least read everything on this site and better, get the EPA manual we sell here.Unless you have time and money to waste: DON’T experiment!  We’ll help you- call us!  Or we’ll even call you! (See the sidebar).

Read up on other’s experiences: see the sidebar for the “FORUM”.  Maybe your situation has been dealt with there!

Materials Problems

Some materials to avoid are:

• common “Eggcrate” cardboard egg holders. You have no idea the number of people who tell us their trials and tribulations to find quantities of it, buy it and install it only to find it does little or no soundproofing! This appears to be because it is frequency “holy”.  That is, it has characteristics where sound at certain frequencies passes freely through it!  Some have told us that some sound transmissions seems to be somewhat enhanced!
• foam rubber of the common sort, such as that of which rubber mattresses are made.  While this has some possibilities, other disadvantages don’t, (such as it’s durability:<it will turn to “munge over time>),  the cost isn’t all that much different than “made for soundproofing” products when so much more of it is needed to be the equivalent of professional materials. Lastly, and maybe most important is that it will burn like crazy!
• rubber floor mat. One would think a rubber material would be a good soundproofer and perhaps it is if properly used, but simply laying it on the floor will do little against noise coming in (or going out).  Rubber and Neoprene are in the same class here.
• old mattresses nailed to the walls.  This technique has it’s followers, but unless butted well together with no spaces, caulked edges, and only if you are willing to put up with the possible odor, mold and moisture they have or can accumulate, not to mention unwanted rodent critter type “guests” that may take up residence – are they a possibility.
• dark paint? Yes, a lady called to check with us if what she was told was true: that painting her hallway with a dark color would perform a soundproofing job.  She had been assured it would.
• cellulose- the kind that they “pump” into walls.  Some people make a living doing this- how?  While it’s not useless, it’s not very effective.  When you pay big money to have this done, you would want to see some serious results, not have someone say  “Well, I THINK I can tell some difference!” (Spray-on wet cellulose over opened walls may be a different matter).
• carpet - Old or New.  Doesn’t make much difference, it will all deteriorate and begin to stink.  The newer will take longer, that’s all.  Same problems as with the Mattress as explained above. Carpet WILL increase the acoustic absorbency of a room, but do little in the way of soundproofing.  (Blocking sound coming through).
• common fiberglass insulation: makes a great thermal insulator, but not a very good acoustical insulator. (Really!)  Read how this is hyped, but don’t believe all of it!
• plywood panels/ particle board are not good for soundproofing as wood transfers sound very well.
• hay bales Yes, these make fine soundproofing units, but are rather temporary, subject to fire and vandalism and obviously for outdoor use. Plastic covering can make them more hygienic.
• Now, our favorite - wires in the ceiling!? (< CLICK)  Check this out!

Procedure Problems

Sound control is sometimes not easy to understand.  Some things that make logical, perfectly good sense don’t seem to work well in practice.  Laboratory results don’t always prove out in the field.  Field techniques can’t always be duplicated in the lab.  One area of misunderstanding is  wall space inside a wall.  Dead air space works for you, better than filling it up with something!  If you do, sometimes packing stuff in can make the sound transfer worse! A larger air space is superior to several smaller ones. This means a wall with 6″ studs creating a 6″ air space is superior to a wall with 4″ studs and a extra layer of drywall with 1″ air spacing on each side.

Don’t blindly accept the experiences of others who have done soundproofing before, there may be newer materials and techniques that cost less and provide more.

There are standard ways of dealing with walls, floors and ceiling, but each case is different.  Run your plan by us, we’ll point it out if it can be improved.

Noise Reduction Soundproofing Kits using Super Soundproofing Materials!

A variety of sound proofing methods and techniques can utilize our materials for noise reduction and abatement.   Make your own sound proofing kit by ordering the materials for it yourself.   Here are some of the most common uses for noise control as related to us by our customers:

Soundproofing a TV in the apartment overhead: Noise reduction eliminates a potential enemy!

The upstairs tenant was totally unaware of the loud annoyance she created for the folks downstairs by the noise of her TV.   The downstairs folks approached her very diplomatically and offered to install under her TV, without cost to her, our “Super Soundproofing Floor Mat” .  She agreed and they ordered five running feet of the floor mat material, P.N. 09-42750 (This is the 1/8″ thick “loaded vinyl” with a 1/4″ foam backing) and at the same time, ordered four small vibration pads

They picked up her TV and laid the mat over the rug, (it could have been placed underneath it), placed the isolation pads under the TV and report the sound heard from it  downstairs  was now reduced to a very low,  acceptable level.  The lady upstairs is more friendly now and the downstairs folks  report they’ve turned  a potential enemy into a friend.

Soundproofing a washer, dryer or refrigerator. The above works just as well for these sometimes noisy appliances!  Use a dab of a adhesive to the pad and the foot of the machine to keep ,it from “walking” out.  If you are wishing for some relief from such noise yourself, a pad of our Super Soundproofing Mat attached to the back wall, in addition to the barrier mat placed under it as explained regarding the TV above works wonders to reduce noise produced in the room.   Use at least half inch material, PN 09-42725. (one inch is better). Tip: They make “roll-out” casters for the fridge to make handling easier. (More about this noise reduction method!)

Portable panels: If you plan on moving but still want some immediate relief from sound  annoyances, make some portable panels you can take with you. Buy 4′X8′ wall paneling (also called “Panel-board”.  “Homasote” and ordinary “Soundboard” also works well.) from the hardware store and attach Super Soundproofing Mat to the backside with contact cement.   Use at least 1″ thick material. (PN 09-42730).  (Well, OK, 1/2″ may work pretty good, too).  Push the panels up into place on your wall using a long finishing nail here and there to hold them in place.  (Tip: seal the edges of your panels with our acoustical caulk for best results).  A noticeable sound level reduction will be made and you can take your panels with you! 

You can leave them behind because they are so inexpensive.  (So is a material called “Wonderboard” Also Duroc,  which is made of concrete!).  Caulking around the edges of your panels as mentioned above is essential.  We have a new portable panel easily removed leaving little evidence they were in use. Call!

Window “Plugs”. The most popular method for getting a good nights sleep.  Use 2″ thick Super Soundproofing Mat (PN 09-42760) cut to the size of your window (s) and press fit into place. Flexible, yet firm, it will stay in place. More on this.  If the noise is so loud one panel doesn’t do it, use two.  A FM radio tuned to the hiss between stations will help to mask noise while sleeping, too.  (Also a running fan).

Investigate our Interior Windows for where you must have light and soundproofing too! (Or look into using clear vinyl sheeting as listed on our curtains page).

Masking sound.  Some have reported that the electronic devices made by Marpac mask out sound very well.  (You can use a fan in the summer!).

Noise Reduction for Doors!   How to do it!

Fencing Out Noise. Due to many requests, we’ll now give you some info on doing this:  Masonry walls are best.  Important!: Walls need to be at least 8′ high.  Federal noise reduction regulations normally preempt local height ordinances, so you should be able to go higher.  You can make your own noise panels using 4′X8′ sheets of CDX exterior plywood with our absorbent mat sandwiched between and bolted to the fence.  A layer of barrier material like our “Mass Loaded Curtain” material is then stapled over the assembly. These panels are to go on chain-link, wood or masonry fencing and absorb and block loud noise such as produced by machinery, roads and freeways.  They can be used in the backyard for noise reduction as they are designed for outside use.   Caulking seams is essential. Call us for more info.

Soundproofing a car hood: More on this here.

Need a copy of the EPA’s  popular (but out-of-print), book on Soundproofing? “QUIETING: A Practical Guide to Noise Control”. (Over a hundred 8.5″X11″pages).  Read this and you won’t need a noise control consultant! Get info on sound walls, materials and STC ratings and much more!  Many illustrations.  We provide it for just $15 PP to cover copying costs and postage. Or you can download it now! Amaze everyone with your new-found expertise!  MORE

Soundproofing Table of Contents

How do I  ? Where can I find  ? Why doesn’t  ? Who is  ? What is  ? When is  ?

How do I find more information on noise control and soundproofing?

See those link on the left sidebar? It links you to specific areas of this site that addresses particular soundproof problems. Everything we’ve learned in talking with people who have experience in sound control and the soundproofing materials to use   has been put into these pages. This is practical info, not geared to controlled soundproofing lab tests and lab numbers.

You may want to get a copy of the EPA soundproof reprint: “Quieting: A practical Guide to Noise Control”, we’ve reprinted it as a public service and it’s available for just postage and the photo copying costs – $15 PP ($18 Foreign). You can order from the web site with your credit card! You can even download it for a small fee ($7.95) -and don’t forget your local library! (Give them your copy when done!).  Some of our selected books are at “Supersoundproofing.biz“.  Even a free download of “How To Soundproof Light Aircraft” – of use to those interested in soundproofing vehicles.

How do I soundproof my window? I can’t get a good nights sleep?

There are several methods to get relief from sound passing through a window, depending on whether you need light or not. These are, in order of importance:

Replace the window with a vinyl framed “double/triple paned” glass window, available from your local hardware store.

Add another window on the inside frame of your existing window. We have “snap-in” windows for this!

Place a sound barrier in the window frame, blocking the sound (and the light).

Use acoustical drapes to block sound as they do in Hotels/Motels.

Noise control reductions of 50%-90% are reported. Go here for other options.

How do I soundproof a wall? I can hear the people next door talking and suspect they can hear me too!

You bet they can hear everything just as you do! If you’re renting, you probably won’t want to spend too much money on modifications, so go see how one guy soundproofed the wall of his apartment. If you’re of a mind to take down the drywall on your side or can spare the space for a “false wall” check the construction techniques used to soundproof a house. Soundproof Ceilings?  OPTIONS

I’m A Musician In A Band,  How do I soundproof my room for practice?

Some people think they can hang some rugs, (substitute mattresses, egg-crate, foam rubber, etc for “rugs” above), and get an acceptable noise reduction as to where the neighbors won’t call the cops. Not so! See the myths page for more details.

To find how to do it right, see the web page here on “Soundproofing A Garage” Also, Portable sound rooms.  Music Rooms

Where can I find soundproofing materials for my particular problem?

Many common materials available locally can be used for soundproofing, such as bricks, concrete blocks, sand bags, roll roofing, drywall, tile backer board, hay-bales and many others, depending on your problem. Professional materials are needed many times because common materials aren’t suitable or effective enough, depending on the job at hand. Some materials that may seem suitable are not! See the myths section of the website to avoid costly mistakes.

Why doesn’t my landlord help me more?

It’s usually a question of money. That’s why most people renting want a soundproof solution they can take with them when they move, which you can do when you put our insulating mat on panels. You need to point out the enhancement to his property value of a soundproofing project and maybe he’ll buy into it!

There’s too much info here! It’s Confusing! How can I find out just what I need?

Just call us! We’ll be glad to answer your specific questions. That’s what we are here for, to help you quickly understand what you need to know in order to avoid making expensive mistakes. Please don’t call on our toll free order line- thereby tying it up for those wishing to place orders, call us on the technical line at 760 752 3030  We’re here 8-8 weekdays Pacific Time. If the line is busy, give us 5-10 minutes and try again.  Also see the Forum and the technical email line (the email box) where we answer questions quickly and clearly.

You can leave orders, card numbers, info, etc on our answer machine after hours, it’s safe and secure.

Who is “Super Soundproofing Co”?

We’re “Brick and Mortar”! We’ve been selling “Super Soundproofing” materials since 1990, mostly to the aviation industry, world-wide. We’ve added to our sound control product line and expanded with this web site in 1997 to bring these hard to find materials to ordinary people who need them for everyday applications.

This site is not about us! It’s about you and how we can help you. There are some snobbish sound control businesses that have come on line with “Million Dollar Websites” geared to expanding their sales from their industrial base. They offer very little in informative content, basically flogging their common audio control room sound deadening products as “soundproofing” materials.

Unlike most of them, you can talk to us by phone and we’re here to help. (760-752-3030) 9-5 Pacific Time, 5 days a week. Others are just jumping on the bandwagon- beware!  Also see “How to pick a soundproofing supplier”.  Applies to contractors too!

What is the difference between acoustical foams?

Common acoustical foams are usually open cell, urethane or polyester expanded foams. Because they are open cell, they absorb and pass sound readily. Usually they are used to condition a room which has bad acoustics, such as reverberation due to reflective, hard surfaces.

Closed cell foams, such as our “Super Soundproofing Mat” absorbs readily but does not pass sound easily, making it a good barrier as well. Made of vinyl-nitrile, it will not absorb odor and has excellent moisture, durability and fire resistance.  Some think it’s the same as neoprene- NOT!

What is the difference between a sound absorber and a barrier?

Absorbers tend to pass sound easily, while barriers block sound. Combined together they make a “Sound Control System”. Our mat is the best and the least inexpensive as we cut it from bulk rolls.

Our “Super Soundproofing Flooring” and “Floor Mat” are barriers make of a 1/8th inch thick “Loaded Vinyl” that weighs one pound per sq ft!  Almost like lead and performs very similar.  (We have lead too!) The Floor Mat has an added 1/4″ foam bonded to it for a vibration isolator. Typical applications are to place the “Flooring” under carpets and to apply to walls under or over the drywall. The floor mat is used where added soundproofing is needed and the foam backing would be needed to add to the sound reduction.

When is the Government going to do something about noise pollution?

The government has been doing something in the form of expanded powers of OSHA and the EPA. But more grass roots activity is being taken by organizations like nonoise.org which has combined resources to help those with noise pollution problems.

They can put pressure on city governments and even condo associations!

Raise awareness about noise pollution

Create, collect, and distribute information and resources regarding noise pollution

Strengthen laws and governmental efforts to control noise pollution

Establish networks among environmental, professional, medical, governmental, and activist groups working on noise control issues

Assist activists working against noise pollution.

The mission of our Noise Control Pollution Clearinghouse is to create more civil cities and more natural rural and wilderness areas by reducing noise pollution at the source by using soundproofing products.

Soundproofing Acoustical Curtains, Drapes and Strip Doors.

Yes!  Noise Control Blackout Curtains and Clear Vinyl sheeting cuts sound and they are economical, too!

Home Theater Curtains? Yes!
Any room should have at least 40% of it’s total area covered with absorbent material to reduce annoying reverberation, which reduces speech intelligibility.
Acoustical Curtains (Acoustical Draperies), are useful for adding absorbency to a room that has many reflective surfaces, such as home theatres, etc.. Sound control through a doorway? Yes!  Soundproofing (Blackout), drapes are a quick, effective and cheap way to improve room acoustics (hang on the walls), as well as to block sound from coming through walls, doorways, windows, patio doors, etc. Especially effective on thin walls, such as mobile homes.
A cheap way to get a good nights sleep!

These drapes work best if they are not stretched tight and completely extended flat to the wall Pick a width that will allow some accordion folding when fully pulled across. (Add at least a third to the width for this). For the best soundproofing effect, try to allow at least a foot of margin around the window/door opening.

Any kind of acoustical curtains can be “doubled up” where maximum soundproofing is wanted: ___—-___—-___—-___ (Top View). Hang the first layer on regular curtain rods, then the second layer on extended rods, creating another airspace between the first set of curtains and the second. Both sides of a opening can be covered this way. These are heavy curtains (12-25 Lbs Each!) and may require a pole rod. (Get rods at the hardware store! Ask for “15 year warranty” rods.)

Use double-sided tape to seal curtain edges to wall for improved results! Also to seal center overlap of two curtains where they join together. Use it left, right and center to seal vertical edges of curtains thus reducing sound migration around and through the curtain joints at the walls and center overlap. Magnetic tape can also be cut into strips and used for this purpose.

“WALK-THROUGH” VINYL CURTAIN DOORWAY BARRIERS

STRIP DOORS

Prefabricated, ready to install Vinyl Strip Doors have excellent optical clarity, permitting good visibility through doorways. Useful for thermal, dust control and noise reduction.

FLEXIBLE TEAR-RESISTANCE VINYL, AN EFFECTIVE NOISE BARRIER WITHOUT THE STIFFNESS

AND VIBRATION OF OTHER TYPES OF BARRIERS.

Mass Loaded Vinyl have lead-free barium metal powder or silicon in vinyl for added weighy and sound control!

Make these yourself by buying the material you need, cutting it and hanging it up. Save hundreds!

Mass Loaded Curtains (Black/Gray, can’t see through) in 4′ wide sheet – These are also used to increase noise reduction by placing over windows and doors.

See-Thru Vinyl Curtain Material (Clear) 4′ wide sheet – Can be applied directly to clean glass to reduce sound coming through the window. Use a solution of distilled water and a few drops of “No Tears” baby shampoo without conditioner. Use a spray bottle to apply and a rubber squeegee to remove bubbles. Use a lint free cloth or coffee filters to clean with the same solution you used to apply. Do not use any cleaner with vinegar or ammonia or paper towels.

Also used for sound/dust control over openings as well as protective covering for tables, etc.

Select Mass Loaded Vinyl Opaque or Clear Vinyl material (or both!) from above chart.

Measure your doorway or window and order to the closest foot in length. For instance, if your doorway was 8′ 2″ high, you would need to order 9′ feet of material. Material can be grommeted (Get the tool at the hardware store!) or mount with some “sandwich” boards holding it at the top. The board is then mounted over the doorway using screws, nails or chain. (Or use the mounting kits shown).

Cut vinyl to length with snips or sharp knife. Allow to brush against the floor for maximum sound reduction. Walk-through panels can easily be made from the 4′ wide sheet with vertical length-way slits. Or order precut strip material from us. Double-up or hang on both sides of the opening for maximum effectiveness.

Our See-Thru Vinyl curtains Meet California Fire Marshall Registration No F-561

Use the mass loaded vinyl (MLV) on walls as a backing for the noise control curtains above to increase effective sound blocking. As effective as lead sheeting! MORE!

USE THESE SIMPLE PIN TYPE MOUNTS TO HOLD  DOOR STRIPS FOR REAL QUICK ASSEMBLY

CEILING MOUNT
WALL MOUNT
STRIP INSTALLATION

The same strip mounts as a wall or ceiling  mount.

CEILING MOUNT —                                                   WALL MOUNT

[BUY]

Use “SUPER” Soundproofing Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV)-

NEW!  Flexible Fireproof Noise Barrier (FFNB) material for airborne Sound Control.  Now in WHITE!  

The ultimate noise barrier  for Flooring or Walls- almost as good as lead! (Yes we have that too!)

Sound transfer through floors and ceilings is a continuing noise control problem, especially in older buildings.  There are two main issues regarding noise transfer:  airborne sound and impact noise. Each are different and require separate soundproofing treatments.  Airborne sound is most easily dealt with.  Use the MLV vinyl barrier.  Impact noise is dealt with by using  “Super Seal” subfloor or SSP-FL or Tl.  Normally  you need both impact underlayment and MLV with a foam backing or a combination of both.

Use a “ Mass Loaded  Vinyl” barrier (MLV),  (1 Lb per Sq. Ft!), carpet under layment as heavy as lead that provides a soundproofing layer on the floor and under the carpet and padding for noise control.  It is a tough, wear resistant material that may be placed on or under floating (not nailed) hard floors to make them more comfortable by reducing impact while slowing noise transfer above and below.   When used as an underlayment for hardwood floors or tile, it reduces sound  transfer dramatically.  Can also be used on walls and ceilings.  When installed inside the wall, it more than doubles the STC.  For instance, a standard hollow sheetrock  wall, with 1/2″ Gypsum board on metal studs has a STC rating of about 20. (Ordinary conversation through it can be understood).  Adding the MLV can increase it to about 53!  (Loud shouting is not heard).  Just staple or glue the material to the wall, then cover with sheetrock- tape off and paint.  Want more sound reduction? Use a double layer of MLV or double weight (2 Lb) material!  You can use our fireproof white MLV as a direct wall covering – inquire! 

Click here  for Prices:  [BUY]

MLV is commonly used as a carpet underlayment,  one type  has a foam backing, the other doesn’t.  The foam backing mat is recommended under carpets as it provides a vibration cushion, floating the barrier just off the floor. This helps reduce footfall and impact noise.  MLV without the foam cushion would be under the subfloor or in walls and ceilings or as second layer to increase sound reduction even more.  The type with closed cell foam is far more effective than the other two types in reducing impact noise.

Typically used this way:  seal subfloor cracks,  gaps with acoustical caulk first.  Tape seams of the floor with metal tape.  Lay the MLV down, caulk  (use acoustical caulk!) and seal edges with metal tape. Cover with carpet pad and carpet.  If using the one with and without foam backing together, place the foam backed material down first.  Install 90 degrees to each other.  Important!  Do not skip the step of inspecting and caulking the gaps and seams of your bare subfloor!

Combined with the “Double drywall” technique described in the resilient channels page, it provides the ultimate in sound reduction.

MLV may even be painted. (Clean well with alcohol and use vinyl or latex paint).

Fast way to get superior sound control in your apartment:  Buy imitation wall paneling from the hardware store.  Carefully cut to fit your wall. (No gaps). Apply MLV to the back of the paneling with either contact cement or using the version with PSA. (Pressure Sensitive Adhesive).

Attach to your wall with finishing nails. Panels can be removed with a minimum of small holes when you move!  Tip:  Using metal tape on the walls at the place where the joints are will increase the sound blocking effectiveness of your panels.

The three types of Paintable MLV we sell are the:

GOOD:  Super Soundproofing MLV:  Same as above for homes and offices, but without the foam backing.  Somewhat  less expensive at approx. $4.52 per running foot. ($1.13 per Sq. Ft). Available in 4′ widths X 25′ lengths: $1.13 or  4.5′X30′  $5.08.  Also available with peel-off adhesive backing! (Eliminates the mess and odor of adhesive and is easier to install on walls/ceilings.) Available in 2# weights too. See the buy button or better, CALL!

BETTER: Super Soundproofing MLV:  Useful for vehicles, too. 1/8″ thick. It has a 1/4″ open cell foam bonded to the underside to provide additional vibration isolation.    $8.63 per running foot: (54″ wide). ($1.92 per Sq Ft). PN 09-00004-F   30′ Roll: $258.40 09-00004-1

BEST: We also have Super Soundproofing MLV- same as above but with 1/4″ closed cell foam bonded to the MLV for superior noise damping and blocking. $14.63 per running foot: (54″ wide). ($3.26 per Sq Ft). PN 09-00006-F   30′ Roll: $391.20 09-00006-1    [BUY]

Flammability:  These Versions  meets certain UL and building Department requirements but are not FAA approved for certified aircraft. (Homebuilt OK).  We do now have a certain MLV that meet Firecode regulations- inquire!

Use MLV under machinery, speakers  and health / exercise machines  for noise control into and through the floor!  You’ll need at least a 3′-4′ margin of Mass Loaded Vinyl barrier around your running machine to reduce flanking sound from penetrating down through the floor.  Special dimple Vibration pads will help here too!

Another use we discovered is to lay panels of the “MLV” (loaded vinyl barrier with a foam backing),  inside/above a dropped acoustical tile ceiling.  The material needs to be cut so that it overlaps each adjacent layer by a few inches.  This is done by cutting a  length of the 54″ wide material long-ways into two 4′X2’3″ sections.  These will then cover  two 2′X4′ sections of the dropped ceiling tiles with an overlap.  Start with a run of ceiling tiles in place against the walls and caulk the seam at the wall in place using our non-hardening caulk. (See our “Prices” page). Cut a slit in the panels with a knife or scissors to clear the suspension wires and caulk the cut seam and the area where the  wire passes through with a heavy blob of sealant.  Before starting this job, evaluate the strength of the wires holding the ceiling up.  If need be, add wires to reinforce the suspension system.  Bear in mind this mat weighs one pound per square foot and the ceiling support wires may not be  normally stressed for this kind of weight.  (But we’ve found most are overly wired and are OK).

Things to keep in mind:  Be sure to cover the entire area, caulking gaps and seams to prevent air flow that will carry sound. Have someone  help to cut panels and hand them up. This will make it much easier while working standing on a ladder inside the ceiling area.. If the walls of the room do not extend up through the ceiling to the roof, consider adding higher walls to the “stub” walls so as to prevent flanking sound from passing through  and over  from the adjoining ceiling. 

Tip: lay out the material and leave overnight to let it flatten and to prevent curl and  billow type bubbles due to uneven expansion.

This is an inert material and has no ability to outgas.

Dimple Pad: Now, a product for reducing impact noise for under hardwood and tile floors!:  SUPER-SEAL: “Sub-Floor +”  floor underlayment. At last! A dimpled product that reduces impact noise created by walking on hardwood or tile floors. It’s just 3/8″ thick, comes in rolls 6’6″ wide. Just $1.85 per sq. ft. (You’ll need a combination of this and MLV too if there is an issue with airborne noise).

We have another product that combines impact and airborne sound control in one membrane.

Tips for new construction or renovation of floors:

The subfloor is the culprit in sound transfer.  Sometimes it’s not thick enough, or strong enough, (where thin subfloor panels are used over floor joists that are spaced too widely for the thickness of subflooring).  Or where the subfloor is improperly attached with too few fasteners or just nailed.  (Use screws!)  If your floor joists are exposed, now is the time to forestall problems in the future.  As a minimum, use our green Sound Isolation Tape to tape the faces of the joists/subfloor joints  to help prevent squeaks and to reduce sound transfer into the joists. It comes in 1-7/16″,  2″ or 3″ widths for this purpose.  You can apply the tape easily by hand.

Better, buy the 2′ or 4′ wide material (yes, that’s 2 “Feet” and 4 “Feet” wide!), similar to “Green Glue”. to cover the underside of the entire sub-floor panel.  This will add dampening to the panel, reducing the resonant “boom” when walking on the floor.  All these tapes come with a peel off backing for easy, clean, no-mess adhesive application.  We have that, too – Inquire!

A less expensive, more labor intensive method is to glue  1/8″ or 1/4″ closed cell acoustical foam to the underside of your sub-floor panels. (Cost: About $1 per sq. ft.)

This also works well for drywall panels, too.

There are many ways to use these sound barrier underlayment materials in combination- for maximum results call us to help you tailor your installation for your specific needs. 760 752 3030 8-5 PST 5 Days

New!  “FFNB”  Flexible Fireproof  Noise Barrier.  Concerned about flammability  of MLV? – use FFNB instead – CALL! 

For fully floated floors:  CALL!           [BUY]

Soundproofing a House

A walking tour…..  using soundproofing products.

You swing out briskly walking trying to keep up with Robby, the clean-cut guy you met touring his apartment soundproofing job.

“Hey! Wait up, Robby!”  You puff.  ”You’re going too fast!”

He slows a bit and says:  “We’ll have to hurry to get it all in, especially if you want to look at all the stuff I’m going to show you.  But anyway, here we are!”   Together you enter a average looking two story house on a quiet street.  

Folks on the street idly eye you both  as Robby’s key opens the door.

You enter a wide hallway with doors leading off in different directions.

Robby speaks: ”You’ll notice the doors in the hallway do not line up across from each other.  That’s so sound doesn’t transfer across and through opposite open doors.  This is one of the little known principles of soundproofing, called “staggering”.

“At the end of the hall is the basement. we can visit that at any time you like to see what special methods are needed for a good soundproofing job. One of these doors (a ‘double-door’, this side opening in, the other opening out), leads to the garage, where I’ll show you how we soundproofed it for band practice.

You notice that while the floor is hardwood, the wallpaper  covered the “Super Soundproofing mat” on the walls and ceiling contribute to the richness of the sound of your footsteps.

He comments:

“At least 25% of a room should have some absorbent material to reduce reverberation.   This can be furniture, carpet, or whatever.  If the balance is right the sound is rather pleasant. Lets go up the stairs”.   You follow obediently.

At the top of the stairs, another hallway is presented.  Again, doors open  off to the sides.

Robby says:  ”Here we have carpet on the floor of the hallway to absorb sound because this is mostly a bedroom area.  Not much need be done for soundproofing purposes except for the bedroom floors as this is already a quiet area”.

“That door over there leads to a small apartment over the garage.  And that one is a “safe room“.

He pushes open  one of the doors.  “In this bedroom here, we must have something on the floor for soundproofing as this room is right over the living room.   Here we have made the floor a major part of our soundproofing effort.  Take these x-ray glasses and have a look.”

He hands you that appears to be a small video camera.

“See, on the LCD screen you can see right through the structure of whatever you point it at.  Adjust the “focus” to see further or less into the floor”.

“We call them our “Super Soundproofing Looking Glasses”. he says proudly.

With a little practice you can look at the underlying structure of the flooring through the camera.

Clearly you can see the floor joists, the sub flooring and their overlays.

“What’s so special about this?”  You ask.

“Well, not much except that we’ve taken the trouble to put  “Soundboard” up between the rafters from below and selected special recycled carpet padding for the overlay.  The most important item is the use of the “Super Soundproofing Floor Mat”.  It’s what they call a loaded vinyl and weighs about one pound per square foot.  That makes it an excellent soundproofing material”

“Could you use something else?”

“Sure, some inexpensive things like acoustical ceiling panels could be used instead of the Soundboard, but there’s not much of a price differential.  The recycled carpet padding costs even less than regular padding!  The SSP flooring replaces lead sheeting and is fairly expensive but there is no inexpensive substitute”.

“My ceiling has lots of noise because the flooring above it has squeaks!”

“Can you make repairs from above?  Usually renailing it will quiet it down”.

“No” You tell him.

“Tear down your ceiling and woodscrew triangular wood strips to the flooring above and to the joists.  It helps if you use a copious amount of “Liquid Nails” adhesive. This will keep the flooring above from moving about and stop the squeaking.   You’ll probably want to add some Soundboard or Homosote in between the rafters before putting your ceiling back in.  They should have taped the tops of the joists before putting down the subfloor!”

“Good Idea!”  You wave the camera about.  ”Say, I’m beginning to really like this device!”  You notice as you adjust the “focus” that you can see for quite a distance right into the house next door!

“Well, take a look with it down into the walls of the rooms below, to see how we staggered the studding.  This provides vibration isolation from one wall to the other, prevent sound transfer from room to room”.

“Yes, yes!  I can see it clearly!”

“You can do this with tape to existing wall studding, too!”

“The some of the other things  we could have done to improve on the soundproofing of these walls is to add another layer of drywall to them.  We would have specified more 5/8″ “fire code” drywall. This would be  done by placing them on “hangers”: resilient channels or sound clips used as vibration isolators.  They also space the drywall out somewhat from the existing wall so there is an increased air space. We did use this type of “double drywall” on the walls facing the street.  This adds to the soundproofing effectiveness.  What you probably can’t see is that we placed “flooring” (MLV <Mass Loaded Vinyl>)in between the drywall panels and took the time to carefully caulk around the drywall so as to eliminate any spaces sound can enter or come out.

We  staggered our electrical boxes, one sire to the other, placing them at least two feet apart where possible.  We also caulked around them thoroughly”.

“I see you used blown in insulation”.

“Yes, more for convenience.  If we had used “R-14″ we would have used the compacted kind for added soundproofing over the regular kind, sometimes referred to as C-703 or C-705.  We could have stapled asphalt roll roofing to the studding but for the odor, but the insulation guys come with a truck and do the walls and attic all at the same time.  Remember, this was new construction.   Even though the soundproofing effectiveness of the roofing material is greater than the insulation and is cheaper, we did it for convenience”.  Mass Loaded Vinyl or lead is superior to all of the above, but is more costly.

You look around the bedroom. ”What about those windows?”

“We used double paned glass and vinyl frames.  These are a bit more expensive, but not as expensive as true acoustical windows. Over the life of the house, acoustical windows are well worth it.  We put shutters on the inside and if we have trouble with a noisy neighbor, a party or something and really need to get to sleep, we just stuff a  layer of 2″ thick Super Soundproofing Mat in the window.  It’s thick enough to stand in place by friction. If a more permanent installation is needed, we can visit the windows section to see how it’s done”.    In a place where we must have light along with substantial sound reduction, we use a interior  windows custom made to fit inside the frame. Acoustical Drapes/Curtains are an alternative, too.

You say: ”Let’s get on with the tour!”

“Bear in mind that these types of improvements increase the value of a home drastically, especially when you’re the one living here!”  He says.

“Flip that switch on the camera and you convert it to an Infared Scanner! Now you can see temperature differences were heat is leaking from cracks and seals.  Such air leaks means sounds can migrate through, because sound is a lot like water, it will find the path of least resistance.”

“Now, shall we go up to the attic and check out the insulation or down to the basement or garage to see how it’s soundproofed for band practice?”

Want a copy of the EPA’s out-of-print popular book on Soundproofing?  ”QUIETING: A Practical Guide to Noise Control”.   (Over a hundred 8.5″X11″pages).  Read this and you won’t need a consultant! Info on homes, walls, materials, STC ratings and much more!  Many illustrations. Available for just $15 PP to cover copying costs and postage. You can download it too!

SOUNDPROOFING WALLS/CEILINGS USING RESILIENT CHANNEL AND ACOUSTICAL MAT TO MAKE A SOUND DEADENING WALL (or Ceiling).

The partition walls in most family homes are constructed of Drywall (Sheetrock/Gypsum Board) firmly attached to both sides of a wood or metal stud frame. When sound waves hit one side of the wall it causes the drywall on that side to vibrate. Since the drywall is rigidly connected to the stud frame, the vibration is transmitted right through the studwork to the drywall on the other side and re-radiated. Those same vibrations traveling through the studwork can also duct noise throughout adjacent floors and ceilings. Noise will radiate easily through the structure because there’s almost nothing there to isolate or absorb the sound waves.To reduce this effect and to dampen the sound waves, resilient metal channels can be inserted between one of the drywall walls and the studwork. The resilient channels act as shock absorbers, greatly reducing vibrations coming from either side of the wall from passing through the wall. Absorbent mat is used inside the wall to cushion the channel/drywall and to provide an absorbent compartment to trap sound waves.

The resilient channel technique by itself typically adds 3 to 5 (or more) Sound Transmission Class (STC) points to an otherwise identical wall or ceiling. This by itself, is not usually sufficient to meet total noise level reduction requirements under most circumstances. Other added construction materials and techniques are usually needed, such as adding absorbent mat and/or barrier material to the wall space. Some considerations are the amount of wall space that can be donated as mounting the wallboard on these 1/2″ thick channels increases the thickness of the wall (or ceiling) somewhat.

It is important to distinguish acoustically effective resilient channels from hat channels, Z-channels and other lightweight metal furring systems that drywall contractors are used to installing. These other systems may resemble resilient channels, but they allow no movement and are simply too rigid to be effective. Only true resilient channels have any acoustical benefit.

It is extremely important to install these channels correctly. Improper installation will nullify any advantage gained from using it in the first place.

There are a few simple procedures that need to be followed when using them. In existing walls, large opening should be cut in the drywall panels to Open Up the wall and expose the dead air to the new wall covering. One large dead air space that is created and linked together contributes greatly to the sound control system. In fact, adding furring strips (spacing blocks) of 1″-2″ increases the sound reduction effect (especially at low frequencies of sound) by increasing the dead airspace. The channels are then applied directly over Super Soundproofing MLV barrier mat that should be first used to cover the wall. The new drywall panels are then coated with absorbent closed cell matting material to create an absorbent compartment to dampen sound waves. The absorbent mat is applied like wallpaper using contact cement and a roller. The thickness of material used depends on the level of sound control desired: More is better! In an open, studded wall, sound barrier material (MLV) is typically stapled to the studs, but for best results, between a layer of soundboard and drywall attached to the channels, even though it can be cut and weaved between the studding. On walls and ceilings, the channel should be mounted at a right angle to the framing. On walls, mount with the narrow flange along the bottom and the larger flange up. This allows the drywall€™s weight to draw itself away from the framing. Make sure all the flanges should are pointing in the same direction.
When fastening the drywall to the channels, the mounting screws are to be driven into the channels in-between the studs or joists. It is absolutely critical not to “short out” the resilient channels by screwing long screws into the studs behind them. This rigid connection would destroy their benefit of Floating the wall or ceiling assembly.
The resilient channels should be held back from intersecting surfaces about ¼” on the side edges, and about 4-6″ from the top and bottom of the wall.

It does little good to carefully attach the channels in the middle of the wall if one installs baseboard screws that may connect the entire bottom edge to sill plates. Similarly, it is easy to “short out” the resilient channels at the top of the wall by screwing into headers. Leave space where the wallboard is not connected. The drywall attached to the channels also needs to be held back about ¼” from similar intersecting corners. If the drywall panel edges are jammed against wall or ceiling panels, then they will tend to be rendered ineffective. For walls, the drywall edges should be resting on neoprene vibration pads and sealed with caulk before the wall is finish taped and painted. This provides a supporting base on which to mount the wall and Unload the channels from the weight of the drywall panels. Use 2 of the 2″ pads per vertical sheet of drywall or, 1 every 2′ or so.. The weight of the drywall will tend to crush the drywall edge down on the pad, narrowing the gap to the floor to be sealed. The gaps should then be sealed, as air-tight as physically possible, with plenty of flexible non-hardening caulk. “Backer Square” or Lead tape can also be used for this.

When the resilient channels are properly installed, it should be possible to push and slightly flex the wall or ceiling surface. A lack of flex indicates that the channels too rigid, perhaps because they are shorted out by too long of screws fastened into the wood framing. Also, it usually does not matter which side of the wall is resiliently hung. Of course, doing both sides of the wall is better. For ceilings, use RC-2, which is simply two-legged RC-1. If not readily available, RC-1 can be used but more of it is needed.

To reduce this effect and to dampen the sound waves, resilient metal channels can be inserted between one of the drywall walls and the studwork. The resilient channels acts as shock absorbers, greatly reducing vibrations coming from either side of the wall from passing through the wall. Absorbent mat is used to cushion the channel/drywall and to provide an absorbent compartment to trap sound waves.

The resilient channel technique by itself typically adds 3 to 5 Sound Transmission Class (STC) points to an otherwise identical wall or ceiling. This by itself, is not usually sufficient to meet total noise level reduction requirements under most circumstances. Other added construction materials and techniques are usually needed, such as adding absorbent mat and/or barrier material to the wall space. Some considerations are the amount of wall space that can be donated as mounting the wallboard on 1/2″ channels increases the thickness of the wall (or ceiling) somewhat.

It is important to distinguish acoustically effective resilient channels from hat channels, z-channels, and other lightweight metal furring systems that drywall contractors are used to installing. These other systems may resemble resilient channels, but they allow no movement and are simply too rigid to be effective. Only true resilient channels have any acoustical benefit. A diagram of a typical channel is shown below.

It is extremely important to install these channels correctly. Improper installation will nullify any advantage gained from using it in the first place.

There are a few simple procedures that need to be followed when using them. On walls and ceilings, the channel should be mounted at a right angle to the framing. On walls, mount with the narrow flange along the bottom and the larger flange up. This allows the drywalls weight to draw itself away from the framing. Also, the flanges should all be pointing in the same direction.

When fastening the drywall, the screws are to be connected to the channels in-between the studs or joists. It is absolutely critical not to “short out” the resilient channels by screwing long screws into the wood studs behind them. This rigid connection would destroy their benefit. In existing walls, the channels are applied directly over Super Soundproofing acoustical mat that should be used to cover the wall first. The absorbent, closed dead air space that is created contributes greatly to the sound control system. In fact, adding furring strips (spacing blocks) of 1″-2″ increases the sound reduction effect by increasing the dead airspace. The absorbent mat is applied like wallpaper using contact cement and a roller. The thickness of material used depends on the level of sound control desired: More is better! Sound Barrier material (MLV) is typically stapled to the studs or over the wall. In an open, studded wall, the mat is applied over the studs but for best results, between a layer of sound deadening board and drywall, even though it can be cut and fitted between the studding. Then tape off and paint the sound deadening wall.

The resilient channels should be held back from intersecting surfaces about ¼” on the side edges, and about 4-6″ at the top and bottom of the wall. It does little good to carefully attach the channels in the middle of the wall if one installs baseboard screws that may connect the entire bottom edge to sill plates. Similarly, it is easy to “short out” the resilient channels at the top of the wall by screwing into headers. Leave space where the wallboard is not connected. The drywall attached to the channels also needs to be held back about ¼” from similar intersecting corners. If the drywall panels are jammed against the edges, then they will tend to be rendered ineffective. For sound deadening walls, the drywall should best be resting on neoprene vibration pads and sealed with caulk before the wall is finish taped and painted. This provides a resilient base on which to mount the wall and better close the gap at the bottom of the wall. Use 2 of the 2″ pads per vertical sheet of drywall or, 1 every 2′ or so.. The weight of the drywall will tend to crush the drywall edge down on the pad, narrowing the gap to the floor to be sealed. The gaps should then be sealed, as air-tight as physically possible, with plenty of flexible non-hardening acoustical caulk. Backer Square” or Lead tape can also be used for this.

When the resilient channels are properly installed, it should be possible to slightly flex the wall or ceiling surface. A lack of flex indicates that the channels too rigid, perhaps because they are shorted out by too long of screws fastened into the wood framing. Also, it usually does not matter which side of the wall is resiliently hung. Of course, doing both sides of the wall is better. For ceilings, use RC-2, which is simply two-legged RC-1.   If not readily available, RC-1 can be used but more of it is needed.

click> Old Method New Method> click

Resilient Channels and “Soundboard”

Sound deadening board is a material made from compressed wood fibers. Another similar trade name is”Homasote” ( Somewhat better, but considerably more expensive) and it functions as a thick paper cushion. “Celotex”also makes a version. It used to be that the theory was that soundboard would provide basic resilient isolation for the drywall layers over it. However, screws or nails breach the system and reduce the isolation to the point where, acoustically speaking, it would be better to replace the screws with construction adhesive as much as possible. When using resilient channel and double layers, use extra care to screw the drywall mostly into the soundboard and not through to the metal channels and not to touch studs underneath. The benefit is that the different physical acoustical properties of the drywall and soundboard complement each other, improving sound reduction qualities. Mass loaded barrier is appropriately used between the soundboard and drywall for many added STC points. A construction adhesive like “Liquid Nails” may be used to attach it, but staples work better..

DESCRIPTION:

WHAT IT IS!

click> (Note the large flange is up) DWFC (DryWall Furring Channel)

Resilient channel is a thin metal channel designed to substantially improve the sound insulation of drywall, sheetrock and plasterboard walls and ceilings. The channel effectively isolates the drywall from the framing studwork, reducing direct contact to help dissipate sound which would normally be directly transferred through the frame. This system is easy to install and produces dramatic results. The channels measure about 1/2″ in thickness and the wide flange (drywall mount) is about a 1 1/4″ wide. The vibration absorption properties of the channel can be additionally enhanced by applying thin (1/8″) “Super Soundproofing Absorbent Tape” to the flange of the drywall mount. If not using the RC channel alone or Sound Clips and DWFC, at least use the tape on the face of the studs.

Example:

A standard metal framed stud partition lined both sides with ½” drywall with fiberglass insulation in the wall cavity, (Note: “Packing” in the insulation many may think increases the thermal properties, but it will definitely decrease sound reduction), gives an STC rating of around 20-25 or less.

Conversation can be heard).

The same wall, but with just resilient channel between the drywall and frame, to one side only, can increase the rating to as high as a STC rating of 35 or so. (Now, only loud shouting can be heard).

Even greater improvements in soundproofing the wall can be gained by:

* adding an additional layer of drywall on channel to the other side.

* adding a layer of “Wonderboard” or “Duroc” a concrete based construction material to add more mass (this will help reduce low frequency sound). Add to existing wall, first.

* adding a layer of “Super Soundproofing Silencer “Mass Loaded” Barrier” to the existing wall or adding a layer of Super Soundproofing absorbent Mat” to the existing wall, or both.

* mounting “Soundboard” (Celotex-sound deadening board) or “Homasote” to the channels before the drywall is attached. Caulk and seal the edges of the panels for best results.

* using natural cotton fiber instead of fiberglass batting.

For maximum effect and best results: use “all of the above”.

Channel Cutting: Resilient Channel can easily be cut with tin-snips or hacksaw.

Installation: Walls require less channel than a ceiling for obvious reasons. If they are to be fitted directly to the underside of an existing ceiling, furring strips should be screwed to the ceiling at 2′ centers, right angle to the joists.

The absorbent mat of the appropriate thickness should be applied inside the joists/studding before this stage.

Care must be taken to ensure that the attachments used are secured to the underlying joists where they cross and NOT just to the existing drywall.

The channel should be screwed to all of the strips with drywall screws. Channel should be joined by overlapping them by a few inches with the corrugated webs nested together and BOTH base flanges screwed through to the strip beneath. A “pop” rivet would add extra security to the channel joint.

Drywall Installation: Furring strips are usually not required unless added dead air space is needed in the new wall/ceiling. A panel of 5/8″ “Firecode” Drywall, or similar composite (“Sheetrock, Plasterboard”, “Gypsum board” etc), should be used and fitted to within ¼” of the surrounding walls/ceiling. Joints should be staggered in all directions. ALL joints should be secured to the resilient strip with the appropriate length screws close to their edges. Adding our tape to the channel pads the metal where it touches the wallboard. (If the panel is not covered with mat already).

Attaching: Secure the first of the material to be used to the resilient channel with the appropriate length drywall screws, making sure that the screws ONLY penetrate the corrugated web part of the resilient channel. IT IS ESSENTIAL THAT THE SCREWS ONLY PENETRATE THE CORRUGATED WEBS AND DO NOT COME INTO CONTACT WITH THE RESILIENT channel base SUPPORTS OR furring strips. Do not overly tighten the screws or they may pull through the thin metal channel. Just “snug” them.

Attach the second layer of material (drywall) using the correct length LONGER screws taking care to offset the joints of the first layer and screw only into the first layer of material, not into the resilient channel. (If not using a panel adhesive, a few screws may be put through to the channel if need be). A ball peen hammer will dimple the drywall for help in setting the screw heads. Do not break the paper facing of the drywall panels with the screws as a reduction of strength will result.

Edge Sealant: Flexible acoustical caulking compound that will remain flexible for years should be applied to ALL the edge perimeters after the installation of EACH layer to achieve optimum results.

Finishing:

All drywall joints should be finished with traditional jointing methods and plaster covered before painting/decorating the deadening wall in the normal manner. Do not heavily “mud” the gaps. (Tape and Paint). Protruding screws may be lightly tapped with a hammer and carefully tightened some more by hand.

Resilient Channel: Part/Number: “RC-1″

Dimensions: Steel Gauge : .018

Weight : approx. 0.37Kg/m

Length : Cut for UPS shipping: ( 6′)

Availability: Manufactured by “Unimast”. Check with them or your local Builders Supply for availability in 12′ length, otherwise order from us. (We cut to 6′ for UPS shipping:). We also have RC-2 and DWFC.

Performance:

When installed beneath an existing ceiling with soundproofing absorbent material applied as above, improvements in reducing both airborne noise and impact sound would normally be well in excess of 300%. This means a STC in excess of 50: (Loud shouting can€™t be heard). Fire resistance would be about 1 hour.

TIPS for Walls:

Don’t allow the drywall sheets to set directly on the floor. Use vibration pads made of ribbed neoprene and cork to place under drywall sheets for support when used for walls. Caulk well. Stagger joints. Use metal tape on underlying joints. Caulk well. Don’t screw baseboard onto both the pads and the wall base sill.

Alternative installation of absorbent mat: apply to the inside wall or ceiling panel to be fitted against the resilient channel. This may be somewhat easier than applying it to the existing wall or ceiling. Adding natural cotton fiber instead of fiberglass batting will drastically increase both thermal and sound insulation.

When installing the channel over thicker mat (like 1″), don’t pull mounting screws down too tightly. This will deform the channel. Don’t break the covering paper of the drywall with the screw!

Remodeling a typical wall for average sound reduction: Apply Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV) directly to the existing wall. (Two layers is best). Stapling will hold it temporarily in place. Now install at least one layer of 5/8″ firecode drywall over it. Tape off and paint your sound deadening wall. This will more than double the sound reduction of the existing wall.

Remodeling a typical wall for even more sound reduction: (Where existing wall has little or no sound blocking qualities). Take drywall off on one side, then the joists/studding, electrical boxes inside is caulked well (make sure both sides do not have boxes in line or sound will have a direct path through the wall!) and our 1/4″ acoustical mat is glued to the opposite inside wall and the exposed studding is covered, too. Our “Silencer” flooring (MLV) is stapled to the joists/studding, covering the ceiling/wall completely. Seams are sealed with caulk or tape. (Lead tape improves the seam seal). For an 8′ high wall, three RC-1 channels are installed horizontally over the wall, one in the middle, one at the top and bottom, located a few inches down to avoid the footer and header. Then 5/8″ “firecode” drywall (this is now also available with a lead foil covering) and is laid out on sawhorses and covered with a layer of the 1/4″ foam mat using contact cement and a roller. These panels are installed with foam facing the channels with screws and is supported by 2″ square vibration pads located every 2 feet or so. The bottom of the drywall is caulked tight and the seams too.

To help fill the gap and reduce the amount of caulk use “Backer Square”

Additional soundproofing material will increase the sound control ability of the wall in proportion to the type and amount added, such as adhering additional panels together with “Green Glue” which increases the mass of the wall. The visco-elastic glue acts as a sound dampener as well.

Be sure to cover the entire wall, no gaps left open. Gaps amounting to 2-3% of the wall covered can reduce the effectiveness of the job by 50%!

*******************************

Due to vast differences in the care taken using these installation techniques, information contained in these instructions is given in good faith but without any kind of warranty.

The EPA Manual has more information on this and other techniques.

See our prices pages for product/cost information and availability or call for free consulting! 760-752-3030

NEW! Sound Control Clips with DWFC hold the panels better and are easier to install than resilient channel: Get more than double the STC of resilient channel!  Call about the new SuperSound Clips and DWFC.

We have Green Glue too!   [BUY]

Using Attic Insulation for Sound Control

“How do you know if the attic needs insulation?” You ask Robby.

“Previously, insulation of the attic was done for thermal reasons, to keep the house more cool in the summer and warmer in the winter. Just as important is the acoustical benefits of insulation. If your present house is drafty and suffers wide temperature changes, adding insulation is a practical solution. Up to 30% of the heat or cooling can be lost through the attic in a poorly insulated attic.

Half can be lost through conduction, the other half through air leakage around fixtures, plumbing, electrical boxes and so on. This can cost you several hundreds of dollars a year, depending on where you live. Lately, lots more emphasis has been placed on the acoustical properties of sealing the attic”. Robby answers.

“How much insulation is enough and what about the cost?”

“Well, R-34 is a reasonable level, but R-40 is the standard for new homes in cold climes. New materials on the market improve the acoustics without sacrificing thermal qualities. But, just think, you can reduce the 50% losses yourself, right now, by properly caulking up around cracks and holes! This amounts to real dollar savings and raises the comfort level in the home. During hot days, high amounts of heat is trapped in the attic, migrating into the living areas. This high heat can also damage the wood in your house, causing premature replacement of structural members”. Sealing also reduces noise migration either into or out of the house, too.

He continues:

“The true direct cost has to be determined and payback figured by the cost of fuel and/or electricity in your area versus the reduction in heat loss. Usually these things pay for themselves in a short period of time”.

“Can I do it myself?”

“Sure. This is not a difficult job and certainly within the range of work any handy person. But it’s not a pleasant job. It’s messy and can be cramping. Where the insulation can be blown in, little can be saved by doing it yourself. Using a contractor who specializes in this is the best choice. Be sure to get several written quotes. Find out how much the material will cost you to buy and subtract that from the lowest quote, then you can see what you’ll save in labor by doing it yourself”.

“Don’t forget the soundproofing value of a well insulated house. Aircraft noise will be less, and neighborhood noise will be less noticeable. There’s no price you can put on the reduction of stress! This adds real value to your home”.

“What kind of insulation is best?”

“People tell us that the best results for BOTH thermal and acoustic benefit is cut-wool fiber insulation”.

One reputable name for blow-in material is Nu-Wool, they also have a product called “Wall-Seal” which is a spray-on insulation with acoustical properties. This is, however, a cellulose based material.

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Join us now for another virtual tour through a soundproof basement project

Robby is the young dude you met when you visited his soundproofed apartment. He seems a little more friendly now, perhaps because you’ve already met.

“I joined a band” he explains. “then we found we needed a place to practice. We had the cops come a few times before we realized we absolutely needed a place quiet enough where we wouldn’t disturb the neighbors”!    (more)

“What did you do”? You inquire.

“At first, we had some luck by moving the practice out to the country, but that was not practical for all members of the band. We tried a large room in the back of a house and then a large garage, but that was no good at all.  We always found we needed soundproofing.  Some of the guys tried out their ideas of egg cartons and mattresses, but that turned out to be a joke, a real waste of time and money!”  (See Myths)

” We knew we needed solid walls, so we tried putting the practice in a basement, but the sound just went up through the house and out as well as out the windows of the basement.  We were now certain we had to make a serious effort to soundproof our practice area and figured the basement was the best place to start.  Reading up on the subject here at the website, we found that masonry is a good soundproofing material and our basement was quite full of it!”

“What seemed to be the biggest obstacle to soundproofing the basement, the sound passing up into the house”?

“Well yes, we knew it probably wouldn’t be possible to do good enough of a job to allow watching TV upstairs while we practiced, we are really loud!  But we wanted to at least keep the neighbors happy!  Any soundproofing effort has limitations, translating to a question of time and money.  Different levels of soundproofing are reached with a different application level of effort and materials.  Neighbors have different annoyance levels too.  Perhaps some acceptable level can be reached with a minimum effort and money, but maybe one has to go “all out” from the beginning.  This is what we decided to do, at the same time trying to substitute cheap labor, (the bands), for costly materials”.

“Did you make a plan”?

“Yes, we decided to carefully survey what would be required by reading everything here on the web site and to then select materials and determine a systematic method to apply them. The experts at the website were very helpful, too”.   (760) 752 3030

“How did it work out”?

“C’mon, let’s go downstairs”! He points to a door.

You stop to examine the door. “Say, this seems a bit unusual”.

Yes,” he explains. “This is a solid core “outside” or “exterior” solid core door. You’ll notice it has padding on both sides of it.  The inside padding is cut a little oversize so as to provide a seal over the crack around the doorjamb. We used gasket material (tape) for additional sealing and a doorsweep to cover the gap at the bottom

We left the regular interior door in place and added this door, creating a kind of “Airlock”!

You follow him down the stairs into the basement, shutting the doors carefully behind. You enter an area that seems muffled, noticeably quieter, yet somehow full bodied. Obviously, the acoustics were much improved.

EXPAND

“This house has part of the basement exposed above ground so we elected to soundproof the entire outside walls from top to bottom, rather than just the part that was exposed to the outside. This proved to be a good move because we improved the acoustics, too.  We first applied a vapor barrier, studding and MLV sound barrier under 5/8″ drywall.  Again, the mat would have been the  first choice, but for the expense. We also could have used asphalt roofing material as it’s also cheap, but has an odor and tends to outgas forever. We did save money by not using resilient channel or rubber sound clips, we just taped the studding with the stud isolation tape for padding”.

“What about the windows? You ask.

“They are now history, because of the excellent way glass transmits sound energy. They are still in place, but we first sealed them with caulking compound. Then we cut 2″ Super Soundproofing Mat slabs to a little over the inside frame size and forced them in, again sealing the edges.  We then covered the entire window frame with Celotex ceiling tile cut to fit even with the basement wall. We could have made removable  “Plugs”,  but because we don’t care about the light, or need to open them, we didn’t bother.

This is a large basement so we weren’t concerned with losing space to the false walls we constructed by studding away from the cement block walls. The false walls were built so that none of it touches the rest of the building except through “mounts”.  It is thusly suspended. We made the mounts from vibration isolation pads obtained from the web site, spaced about 2 feet apart. We framed it using as few studs as possible and placed more “Soundboard” inside the framing. It is spaced out from the house basement wall about six inches, creating a dead air space. On the outside is Gypsum wallboard, thin soundproofing mat (1/4″), and then a layer of Celotex ceiling tiles for looks. We used as few nails as possible to aid vibration isolation! When the wall was in place we caulked all around the edges of its rubber mounting, sealing all cracks and crevices” thusly creating a dead air space that sound doesn’t like to travel thru.

You look around. “I see the lights are not built into the ceiling”!

“Remember, the ceiling is for soundproofing!  We didn’t want holes in it! The ceiling is quite high, so we could suspend the light fixtures from the dropped ceiling easily using chains.  Otherwise, we’d use indirect lighting or low profifle tube lighting”.

“Say, Robby, what are these”? You indicate some large wheeled portable panels covered with acoustical soundproofing material.

“We found that the low frequency from the drums was still noticeable outside, so following the principal of attenuation of sound at the source, we made these panels from 3/4″ plywood covered with Super Sound Proofing Mat . We cut the panels in two and hinged them for storage. They open like a “V” on it’s side. We pull the panels over to surround the drums and put them back out of the way when not needed”.

“Did you run into anything unusual in doing this job”?

“Yes indeedy! We discovered the furnace ducting was carrying the sound of the band up and out of the basement”!

“Then what did you do”?

“We painted the ducting inside with Super Soundproofing Liquid, then covered it with the black foam mat. We still had a bit of a problem, because the sound was following the ducting, so we made a hinged door the fits inside the duct. It is covered with the mat and is hinged closed so as to swing open when air passes through the duct. Otherwise it’s closed at all times, effectively blocking any sound through the ducting. That took care of the problem. Ducting made of fiberglass instead of metal would have perhaps prevented the problem in the first place”.

“Can you give me some pointers”?

“Sure! Before you even start, make sure all cracks where sound can escape are sealed!  Cover the windows!  Cover and seal the doors! Provide mounting isolation to your sound walls and seal them too!  Forget about built in flush lighting, hang ‘em outside! (Or use indirect lighting!)  Paint metal ducts with Liquid sound proofing and cover them with mat! Make and use portable acoustical barriers! Use common materials if possible, but when you need it, don’t be afraid to use professional stuff! BTW, egg cartons are not suitable for sound proofing, nor is fiberglass batting”! (A better replacement for fiberglass batting is Natural Cotton Fiber).

“What happens if you do all this and it’s still not enough?”

“You can always put MLV under the carpet upstairs!”

“Thanks, Robby, you’ve been a big help”! I’ve got to go home now.

“Thanks for coming!

NEED HELP!?:
Any questions or pointers of your own, please post to the Q&A Forum Discussion Group so everyone can see the answers!! (See the sidebar).

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